RANGE ROVER: The Armenian viper caper: Part IV

Pique Newsmagazine
Sept 12 2020
 
 
 
 
 By: Leslie Anthony
 
Can you spot the Armenian viper? Photo by Leslie Anthony
 
We were camped above treeline on a ridge in Shikahogh Forest Reserve. We’d driven up here in a parade of camo-bedecked vans that seemed less park vehicle than military conveyance—but what did I know? Only after debarking to a warning about land mines, a yard sale of rocket-propelled grenades, and Kalashnikov rounds crunching underfoot like peanut shells did it become clear: Shikahogh abutted not only Iran, but the Islamic Republic of Azerbaijan, the arch-enemy Armenia recently concluded a war with.
 
Call me old fashioned, but it just didn’t seem cricket to shell your enemies from, or in, a forest reserve.
 
Sidestepping the ordnance, I’d found the first Armenian viper of the trip, proving not only that this Holy Grail endangered species still existed, but that there was now bio-inventory work to do around protecting it. We’d quickly uncovered several more of the striking creatures, as well as a few other snake species. Giant Caucasian bumblebees fled our footfalls as we waded through opium poppies sprouting from the remains of flattened shepherd’s huts. The decimated buildings offered perfect habitat for rodents and perfect cover for snakes, and there were plenty of both: both Alex and Bob slung pillow-cases bulging with serpents that would provide DNA samples before being released; Kolya, forever stoic, toothpick in mouth, surveyed the scene gripping the wedge-shaped head of a massive Levantine viper.
 
As always, I found his casualness disarming. The Levantine was extremely dangerous, with a nasty disposition and outsized fangs that delivered high volumes of tissue-destroying venom. Though his friend, Ilya Darevsky, lost a finger to a Levantine and other colleagues had died from its bite, this one hung from Kolya’s hand like a rope he didn’t know what to do with. After helping him bag it I continued flipping through the mountainside junkyard, but noticed my hands were shaking.
 
Back at camp, someone had slaughtered a sheep. Bulging intestines uncoiled over the ground like spilled spaghetti, fecal contents oozing from several nicks. It seemed sloppy, but again, what did I know? Besides, we were all hungry and happy to khorovatz into the night.
 
After next morning’s Spartan breakfast of cold mutton and vodka served on the hood of a truck, we tromped off to “make photo” with the previous day’s catch. The Armenian vipers, gorgeous and velvety in the morning light, coiled cooperatively on lichen-spackled rock. Even the typically truculent Levantines seemed graciously photogenic. Not so a bright-red, non-venomous species Alex hectored up and down the road, trying to tire it out as you would a puppy; having none of it, the ill-tempered, 1.5-metre snake struck continuously, eventually nailing his left index finger—already grossly misshapen by a past viper bite—drawing blood and ire from Alex but barely a shrug from Bob or Kolya.
 
While photographing specimens, Bob and Kolya communicated in a truncated but well-rehearsed way. If an animal adopted a threatening posture while being posed, Bob might say Hmmm. Translation: This snake is trouble. Kolya would answer, Uh hmm. Translation: I see that. The dialogue didn’t shift in accordance with the situation’s gravity. Hmmm could just as easily mean That cobra is spitting at you. While Kolya’s Uh hmm—as he wiped venom from his camera lens—would still mean I see that.
 
Embodying turn-of-the-century explorer-naturalists with a fascination for foreign lands and exotic creatures, Bob and Kolya had described hundreds of new species between them, in some cases just in time to save them from extinction. But the rugged fieldwork behind such discovery came with a price. After the photo session, the pair trudged back to camp with bilious stomachs, a sign of impending doom. Soon, Bob was at my tent. “Got any toilet paper?” he begged. “I’m all out and just shitting water.”
 
It was the unsanitary sheep slaughter. While the tentmates engaged in a pas de deux of violent vomiting and voiding that left them crawling on hands and knees, I looked to escape the plague by climbing the peak above camp. I expected no more than a brisk walk, but in the illusory way of mountains the slope soon jacked up like a rogue wave, turning it into a scramble.
 
I’d sat atop the highest pinnacle, legs hanging in space, feeling like I could see anything from such a vantage. Into the centuries of warring cultures. Into the geological past and biological present. Into the cataclysm of commerce and an uncertain future wrote for various species. It was the kind of grounding perspective I’d been made privy to by answering the perilous siren-calls of this pack of lunatics. I reckoned I owed a lot to these generous-hearted herpetologists… until my stomach cramped and my bowels made a sound like bad plumbing.
 
The expedition’s final week was desperately long and hot, but we returned to Yerevan triumphant, carrying DNA samples from which could be gleaned information on gene flow between lonesome populations of Armenian vipers, offering prescription on how best to conserve the vanishing species.
 
In Aram’s apartment we slumped exhausted around a clattering, jury-rigged fan blowing maddeningly warm air. Recumbent on the sofa I’d occupied for weeks, I watched the others through fluttering eyelids shaded by a ball-cap: Bob hunched over his computer; Levon on his phone and smoking; ditto Aram #1—while also digging through the latest pot-load of crayfish he was certainly propelling to extinction…
 
I awoke to a commotion near my feet—Kolya chasing an escaped viper. Flushed from the warmth of wires feeding the fan, it had sprung toward the couch where I slept, attempting to climb it. A normal person—perhaps myself some weeks ago—might have jumped in alarm. But sudden movements are never a good thing with snakes, and I knew the crew would deal with it. And if not? Well, there was little to be done.
 
I pulled my hat back down and drifted off.

For Parts I, II and III of the Armenian viper caper see piquenewsmagazine.com Aug, 2, Aug 15 and Aug.27. Part IV is the final instalment.

Leslie Anthony is a Whistler–based author, editor, biologist and bon vivant who has never met a mountain he didn’t like.

 

Hayastan All-Armenian Fund Donating Over $400,000 To Lebanon

The 961, Lebanon
Sept 12 2020

After the tragic explosion of the Beirut port, the Hayastan All-Armenian Fund launched a fundraiser to provide urgent support for Lebanese-Armenians affected by the catastrophe.

The initiative, which goal was to raise $300,000, was able to raise $412,000.

The donations will be used to support teachers, education, and media outlets of the Armenian community in Lebanon.

The Fund announced that $310,000 of the total donations will be used to pay salaries of teachers in Armenian educational institutions for the first quarter of the upcoming academic year.

“The additional donation of $100,000 will be directed to the implementation of educational programs,” said the Fund in a statement.

“Another $13,000 will be donated to Armenian media outlets operating in Lebanon: Ararat, Zartonk, Azdak, Vana Dzayn, and Radio Sevan.”

Executive Director of the Hayastan All Armenian Fund, Haykak Arshamyan, is currently in Beirut to deliver the donation.

Two weeks ago, the Hayastan All Armenian Fund organized a fundraising concert “For You Lebanon” to help Lebanese-Armenians impacted by the blast.

Lebanon is home to hundreds of thousands of Lebanese-Armenians. Their community was among those directly affected by the tragedy of August 4th


Expert warns of growing pressure on Armenian captive in Azerbaijan as Red Cross officials fail to visit him

Panorama, Armenia
Sept 12 2020

Tigran Abrahamyan, the head of the Yerevan-based Henaket think tank, took to Facebook on Saturday to remind that 20 days have passed since Armenian officer Gurgen Alaverdyan mistakenly crossed into Azerbaijan and was captured there, but Red Cross officials have not visited him yet.

“Azerbaijan has carried out various political, legal and propaganda actions in regard to the incident. These are ordinary primitive events, which are usually carried out by Azerbaijan, but I will not dwell on the details at this time,” he wrote.

“The biggest problem at the moment is that the representatives of the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC), which is currently dealing with the issue, have not met with our serviceman yet to provide the necessary assistance,” Abrahamyan stressed.

The expert underlined that the Geneva Convention relative to the Treatment of Prisoners of War clearly sets out all the details of the Red Cross officials’ visits in such situations, the rights of POWs and their family members.

“Accordingly, they should have already visited the serviceman, passed details about his health condition, and, in general, the developments around him to Alaverdyan's family members and made some information public,” Abrahamyan said.

“The later the ICRC meetings and contacts with our officer, the greater the pressure on the serviceman and the problems with the exercise of the rights enshrined in the relevant convention,” he stressed.

The expert called for immediate measures to come into contact with the Armenian captive and to take him under international legal protection. 


How I was saved when I decided to climb Mount Aragats

Panorama, Armenia
Sept 12 2020

Society 19:25 12/09/2020Armenia

It all started when Facebook reminded me of my 2015 post, which was a promise to myself that I would definitely climb Mount Aragats that year. 5 years had passed since the promise, but the goal remained unfulfilled. “You can’t do it", "It’s very difficult", "You won’t make it to the peak", "Go to the pool, if you want to relax": I kept being told by the people who have never conquered heights and are unfamiliar with the pleasure of climbing to the top of a mountain especially after much difficulty. To be honest, I cry in those moments.

The climb was scheduled for Sunday. I had been going through a difficult time, due to which my thoughts were simply suppressed to an extent that I was no longer afraid of any insurmountable height. I was only thinking of going far away and leaving the heavy burden of my soul on the mountains and rocks, especially when it was impossible to change anything else!

I registered for the trip. I was required to be in the Republic Square at 7am. Having spent a few sleepless nights, I stayed asleep that morning to only wake up by the guide's call to find out where I was. Naturally, I said I was on my way. Before I got there, I wondered if the group would leave without me, although I was only 9 minutes late. They had not gone, but none of them was particularly happy to see me, except for one of the guides, the blue-eyed Tatyana. I decided to follow her throughout the trip. We began the ascent near Lake Kari. To my delight, Artyom, the strictest of the guides, was walking in front of the group, while Tatyana was walking behind us for no one to lose the way.

As a slow walker, I always walk behind the group while climbing a mountain. But during the climb a girl twisted her leg and Artyom had to leave the role of leader to Tatyana to provide medical care to her and walk behind the group. So I decided to walk side by side to him at my own pace. To make things easier after the morning incident, I tried to talk to him so that he would not frown at me every time he looked at me. Besides, you need to have a good relationship with a person who has a camera in the hand.

"Are you always smiling or is it a holiday today?" I asked. I must admit, it was a terrible start, it would have been wiser to keep silent.

“Discipline and a sense of responsibility are among the most important things in mountaineering. It will be impossible to ensure security without them. The tendency to be late is the opposite of all these qualities. If you want the mountains to love you, you must follow the unwritten laws," said Artyom, understanding my point.

"And who do the mountains love? Who are the mountaineers?" I went on.

“Mountaineers are the most unique people, but my 11 years of work experience has shown that people with high IQ are attracted to this sport. Mountain lovers have a fantastic mindset and worldview; they have a rich inner world. It is these people who are connect to the mountains, dedicate themselves and think about where to go next at the end of each trip. This can be too much of a task for some people, who quit the climb. During a mountain climbing you can see places you don’t get to see anywhere else: lofty scenes, changing nature. The most important thing is to feel the relief of the earth under your legs, to see the layers, the gorges and the craters.”

By the way, the Aragats crater is the most wonderful I have ever seen. The highest peak of Armenia has a fantastic, attractive force and you do not even remember the difficulties encountered on the way. There is another pattern of climbing a mountain; the harder the climb, the more you get to love the mountain and the more powerful the views are. Among the difficulties of climbing Aragats, I should single out the slippery rocks, the soil, the burning sun rays, the entanglement in the dilemma of looking under your feet and enjoying the surroundings.

A few words about the rocks: there are “deceptive” rocks, which seem to be stable, but only after you put your foot on them will you know whether it was the right choice or not. Falls are possible, but “getting along with” the rocks running under your feet strengthens your soul and refines your mind. A heavy backpack, unprofessional mountaineering clothing and footwear make the climb harder, while a well-chosen backpack, clothing and trekking poles, which often save you from falling down, make the climb easier. But in any case, when you head towards a goal, in this case the desired peak, you will definitely find the strength to get up after a fall and continue your way. If you fail to recognize yourself on the mountains and to win yourself, then you will have a very hard time living with your defeated self. When you register for climbing a mountain, you must remember that you are signing up for your right to fight. You have to fight, you have to see frightening beauty, you have to restrain yourself or shout out, "Oh, what a beauty."

Many think that it takes a lot of physical strength to climb a mountain. I will say the opposite, you need a strength of mind and will. Despite my romantic approach, I must say that, for example, Artyom, for whom this is not only a pleasure but also a job, says that many times they have decided to cut short the climb due to adverse weather conditions.

"Nothing in the world can be more precious that human life. Even in case of a small danger, we always stop the ascent and return. The mountains will not run away, a mountain climb achieved after a few attempts can be even more precious,” Artyom says.

"Is it possible to climb Ararat? Is it very difficult?" I ask.

“There is nothing insurmountable and there is no mountain easy to climb. All you have to do is to prepare properly, understand what is expected, pre-acclimatize, pack the necessary items and set off.”

“And that's it?”

“No, of course, we have to agree with the local Kurds to arrange the climb.”

“And who climb Ararat most often?

“There are mainly two types of Ararat climbers: they are either fanatics, who aim to make it to the top of Ararat. They buy all the necessary items and register, it is more a pilgrimage for them, and there is a second group of hikers who just want to conquer the next height, the summit of a capricious mountain. There has been a love confession and a marriage proposal on the top of Ararat, in another case an old man realized his life dream and climbed Ararat.”

Climbing Mount Ararat

Love in the mountains…

The mountains are great educators and teachers who teach us to live, to move forward and to achieve new heights. The descend, unlike the ascent, is always smoother, as if with the contents of your backpack, which includes food and water, you have digested the heavy weight of your soul on the top of the mountain, and climb down with light heart.

Having climbed behind the group with heavy and slow steps, I did not even feel tired when I was walking down. I was happy, satisfied and I walked in front of the group. Even Artyom was kind and, to my surprise, he offered me to join them the very next day in climbing the new mountain they had discovered – Sevasar hidden in the mountains of Javakhk …

On the way back to Yerevan I was silent, I retained in my head the mountain landscapes, the road full of large, massive rocks, the cones, the mountain slopes covered with lava from volcanic eruptions, the crater, the people clapping with trekking poles, the chamomiles growing on the rocks.

I do not know where you can be in more harmony with yourself and the surrounding world other than on the peak of a conquered mountain. I remember lying down, looking at the mighty mountain ranges in front of me and the crater and telling myself, “Congratulations, you are on the highest peak of Armenia, you can be proud of yourself, love yourself and conquer other mountains!”

Geghama Mountains, Mount Ara and Mount Hatis from northern peak of Aragats

Artsakh president attends re-opening ceremony of school building in Jivani

Panorama, Armenia
Sept 12 2020
Education 20:00 12/09/2020 NKR

President of Artsakh Arayik Harutyunyan on Saturday attended the solemn re-opening ceremony of a school building in Jivani community of Martuni region, the presidential office reported.

The old school building has been fully renovated with the support of the Foundation for Future Generations.

The Artsakh leader got acquainted with the works conducted in the period and was interested in the resumption of classes at schools.

The ceremony was attended by philanthropist, Artsakh State Advisor Grigory Gabrielyants, cabinet members, lawmakers and other officials.



Armenia COVID-19: Record number of tests conducted over 24 hours as cases keep downward trend

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 11:15, 9 September, 2020

YEREVAN, SEPTEMBER 9, ARMENPRESS. 199 new cases of COVID-19 were registered in the past 24 hours, bringing the cumulative total number of confirmed cases to 45152 , the Armenian Center For Disease Control reported. 431 patients recovered, raising the number of total recoveries to 41023.

A record number of 3518 tests were conducted over the past 24 hours.

The day before, the health authorities had conducted 1864 tests and recorded 108 new cases.

2 people died from COVID-19, increasing the death toll to 905. This number doesn’t include the deaths of 279 (3 in the last 24 hours) other people infected with the virus who died from other pre-existing conditions, according to health authorities.

As of 11:00, September 9 the number of active cases stood at 2945.

Earlier on September 7, given the declining numbers of COVID-19 infections in Armenia, the Ukrainian authorities for the first time listed Armenia in the list of green countries, meaning Armenian travelers arriving in Ukraine won’t have to undergo a mandatory testing or self-quarantine.

Reporting by Lilit Demuryan; Editing and Translating by Stepan Kocharyan




Armenia COVID-19 testing ramped up ahead of reopening of schools

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 13:59, 9 September, 2020

YEREVAN, SEPTEMBER 9, ARMENPRESS. Healthcare authorities said they’ve significantly ramped up COVID-19 testing over the last 24 hours because teachers are being tested ahead of the planned re-opening of schools on September 15.

“The increase of the number of tests is due to the fact that teachers are being tested. They must be tested before the schools are reopened,” Healthcare Ministry spokesperson Alina Nikoghosyan told ARMENPRESS.

A record number of 3518 tests were conducted over the past 24 hours. 199 new cases of COVID-19 were registered, bringing the cumulative total number of confirmed cases to 45152 , the Armenian Center For Disease Control reported. 431 patients recovered, raising the number of total recoveries to 41023. 2 people died from COVID-19, increasing the death toll to 905. This number doesn’t include the deaths of 279 (3 in the last 24 hours) other people infected with the virus who died from other pre-existing conditions, according to health authorities.

As of 11:00, September 9 the number of active cases stood at 2945.

Reporting by Anna Grigoryan; Editing and Translating by Stepan Kocharyan




After 14 years on air, Keeping Up with the Kardashians will end in early 2021

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 14:06, 9 September, 2020

YEREVAN, SEPTEMBER 9, ARMENPRESS. After nearly 14 years on air, Keeping Up With The Kardashians will soon end, the Armenian-American reality TV star Kim Kardashian announced on Twitter.

She said the last episode of the show will air in early 2021.

“It is with heavy hearts that we’ve made the difficult decision as a family to say goodbye to Keeping Up With The Kardashians,” she tweeted.

The show – focusing on the personal and professional lives of the Kardashian–Jenner blended family – ran for 14 years and made global stars of Kim, her siblings, their parents, partners and children.

The final season, its 21st, will air in early 2021.

Expressing her thanks to the "thousands of individuals and businesses" involved in the programme, Kim also added: "I am so incredibly grateful to everyone who has watched and supported me and my family these past 14 incredible years."

"This show made us who we are and I will be forever in debt to everyone who played a role in shaping our careers and changing our lives forever," she went on.

After Kim announced the plans, her sister Khloe Kardashian tweeted: "The emotions are overflowing today… change is tough but sometimes needed."

A spokesperson for E! said in a statement to CNN: "While it has been an absolute privilege and we will miss them wholeheartedly, we respect the family's decision to live their lives without our cameras."

Three episodes of the show “"Mother Armenia" (2015), “"It Feels Good To Be Home" (2015) and the "Fights, Friendships, and Fashion Week Part 2" (2020) were filmed in Armenia.

Editing by Stepan Kocharyan




Parliamentary committee investigating 2016 April War expected to submit final report soon

 14:21, 9 September, 2020

YEREVAN, SEPTEMBER 9, ARMENPRESS. The parliamentary ad hoc committee investigating the circumstances of the 2016 Four Day April War will submit its final report to the Speaker of Parliament Ararat Mirzoyan by the end of September, committee chair MP Andranik Kocharyan told reporters.

“The report will be definitely fully presented to the Speaker of Parliament during this month, in order for its further fate to be initiated as required by the Rules of Procedure,” he said. “The report will have top secret, secret, classified, unclassified parts,” he added, noting that lawmakers, the society, as well as security bodies will be enabled to get acquainted with the unclassified parts.

However, he mentioned that he will do everything in order for the families of the soldiers who died during the 2016 Azeri attack on Artsakh to have all details of the report.

Reporting by Norayr Shoghikyan; Editing and Translating by Stepan Kocharyan

Hayastan All Armenian Fund transfers donations to Syrian-Armenians

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 15:17, 9 September, 2020

YEREVAN, SEPTEMBER 9, ARMENPRESS. The Hayastan All Armenian Fund donated around 70,000 dollars to help mitigate the COVID-19-related healthcare and socio-economic situation of the Syrian-Armenians.

The fund’s director Haykak Arshamyan transferred the donation to the Armenian Embassy in Damascus on September 9.

“The donation is proportionally distributed – 30,000 dollars to the 502 teachers and 42 maintenance staff of Armenian educational institutions in Syria. At the same time a total of 40,000 dollars in assistance was provided to our compatriots who are being treated in hospitals in Syria,” the fund said.

The donation was made from the COVID-19 Armenia: Let’s Overcome the Pandemic Together fundraiser.

Editing and Translating by Stepan Kocharyan