PETROSSIAN PARIS — CAVIAR AND EXTRAORDINARY FOOD
Huffington Post
ossian-paris—-cavia_b_479078.html
March 2 2010
Comments I have been visiting Paris for more than 50 years, and I can’t
recall an occasion when I didn’t stop in at the Petrossian Caviar
shop at 144 rue de l’Université for a dollop (or two) of Iranian
beluga caviar, usually with blinis and a shot (or two) of Russian
vodka. But on my last trip there, it was so prohibitively expensive
that I had to forego the pleasure. I knew that the Petrossian family
had opened a retail shop here just across from my friends Silvio and
Eddy’s Il Piccolino restaurant, but the shop was so unimpressive that
I never returned.
Imagine my pleasure when I heard that they had revamped it and, in
addition, opened a casual dining room/café. Petrossian Paris Boutique
and Café (321 N. Robertson Blvd., at Rosewood, West Hollywood (310)
271-0576) is now serving extraordinary food from 10 am to 11 pm Monday
through Saturday, 10 am to 6 pm on Sunday.
But let me digress…two Armenian brothers, Melkoum and Mouchegh
Petrossian, along with the latter’s wife, émigrés from Russia, had
opened their Paris shop in the early 1920’s to introduce the pleasures
of caviar to a willing world. Her family was one of five behind
the fame of the budding caviar industry in imperial Russia at the
beginning of the 19th century. Today their descendents, led by father
Armen (he of the ever-present bowtie and swashbuckling moustache),
and sons Alexander and Robert, have also opened boutiques in Monaco,
New York and Las Vegas…with the revamped LA being the latest.
On my first visit there last month, I was snacking in the café with
friends when I spotted Leba Sedaka walking by the retail boutique
and beckoned her in; she told me she and Neil were flying to New
York in the morning and she needed an elegant gift for the owner of
the private plane. I pointed out a nice-sized tin of domestic caviar
which would last them to the East coast, and for less than $500 she
had solved her gift problem.
The patriarch of the family told me: "For nearly 80 years, we have been
recognized as the foremost purveyor of fine caviar from all over the
world. Today, with supplies of Iranian and Russian caviar difficult
to impossible to obtain, we have scoured the world and often initiated
the production of fine caviar from a variety of farmed and sustainable
sources. Kazakhstan, China, Israel, the U.S., but also from France,
Germany, Bulgaria. I know that caviar has a solid place in today’s
unpredictable consumer market. Over 85% of the caviar now sold in
the United State is California-raised in eco-friendly ways," he told
me. "Now it is a small indulgence that no longer requires splurging,
since American caviar is delicious, eminently affordable and a way to
support the California economy." Amen. In these days of uncertainty,
we all need small moments of pure pleasure…and what can bring one
more satisfaction than a taste of good caviar?
A word about the new retail space and the café: LA designer David
Davis drew on a palette of grey cerulean blue, a color used from
the time of Louis V and Madame Pompadour for the exterior, matching
the Petrossian shops in Europe and Manhattan. I like the vivid red
lettering he used on the facade of the marquee. I noted that he used
deep blue Galucha, a synthetic sting ray skin with pebbled surface
reminiscent of caviar pearls. The dining room is elegantly casual,
featuring tasteful artwork from the nearby Findlay Gallery. Tables are
set far apart and soft jazz permeates the background. Floor-to-ceiling
windows overlook the Robertson scene; in fact, the extraordinary
15-foot ceilings are accented by exposed turn-of-the century Paris
steel trusses. There is outdoor seating on the street side of the
boutique shielded by rose plants.
After several stunning meals here, I have concluded that the smartest
thing the Petrossian family has done is to enlist the services of one
of the finest young chefs in the world to cook at the café. I don’t
make that statement lightly either. Executive Chef Benjamin Bailly at
28 has more experience and talent than most celebrated chefs twice
his age. He has just been nominated as one of the Best New Chefs of
the Year by the James Beard Awards. When I dined with Joel Robuchon
at MGM’s L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon 3 years ago, Ben was sous chef
in that three star kitchen, having assisted the genius French chef
in opening six namesake restaurants around the world. But still,
who would dream that in a sparkling little café on Robertson I
would experience some of the great meals of my life? My first dinner
was a last-minute drop-in with film director Fred Levinson. I told
General Manager Christopher Klapp that we wanted to start with a caviar
service…but my tight budget would only permit about a hundred dollars
for the treat. He smiled and said it was a given: with the assistance
of our lovely wait person, Julia, a theatre student at USC, he quickly
returned with an iced bowl containing a small tin of Alverta ($101),
caviar from a Northern California white sturgeon.
Served with a half-dozen each of fluffy blinis, sour cream and chopped
egg, the caviar was nutty, smooth and robust, small dark beads. I asked
why no red onion and Chris indicated that Armen Petrossian felt that
the onion was only used to mask inferior quality eggs. Other caviars
are available at varying prices: Ossetra, with its medium-sized
greenish-gray beads; Sevruga, from wild sturgeons of the Caspian
Sea, strong taste and grey beads; and the Imperial Special Reserve
known as "Persicus," dark and robust, bursting with flavor, rather
expensive. Chef sent out two small glasses of palate-refreshing soup,
a cold Borscht and a Cantaloupe Gaspacho. Other choices are a White
Asparagus Velouté and Wild Mushroom Cappuccino; all $6 a cup and $9
a bowl. The mushroom is strongly sensational.
Salads are either $14 or $16, and the most popular is the Petrossian
Salad, haricots vertes, foie gras terrine, black truffle dressing. A
dish of softly scrambled eggs in the French style is $16 with trout
roe, but I went for the eggs with white sturgeon caviar for $26,
worth every penny. There are five or six sandwiches for lunch, not
yet sampled, although I am aiming for a classic Croque Madame ($12),
French ham, gruyere, sauce Mornay, sunnyside up egg. Petrossian smoked
salmon is legendary, so a sandwich featuring it is perfection.
With all that out of the way, let me get to the good stuff, and why
I said in front that these recent meals here have been among the best
of a long life. Napoléon Tartare ($24), an ethereal dish which left
us all speechless. I salivate as I write about it…think hand-sliced
steak tartare made from beef that the chef personally collects at a
Niman Ranch waystation. Gently seasoned and formed into a rectangle,
then layered in the center with a spread of caviar! Served with a
pinch of baby greens seasoned with black truffle oil and a few shards
of crisp toast. I said with a twinkle in my eye to friends that I
doubt if anywhere else in the world tonight is someone eating this
same dish. At that moment, our Petrossian Jell-O ($12) arrived. A
glass of jello, (not the rubbery kind my mother made), filled with
shards of baby scallop ceviche, yuzu dressing, and apple mousse.
Again, a dish not rivaled anywhere I know. New to the menu and a
particular favorite of the brilliant young chef is his Black Truffle
Mac & Cheese ($16), orrechiette pasta, prosciutto, truffles and
parmesan. In the annals of mac ‘n cheese history, this dish will go
on the top of the list.
Here are still several dishes to be tried at the top of the "Signature’
menu: think Carnaroli Risotto ($22), the ‘EggXiting’ ($24), a petit
caviar egg with classic accoutrements, and of course their signature
Smoked Salmon ($18). But now we are coming to the heart of the chef’s
stunning menu, five dishes which will have you walking away in stunned
silence, then lying in bed that night and trying to recall the elusive
flavor and details. I deliberately am not referring to the Sturgeon
Confit ($26), since I didn’t have a desire to sample that. But yes,
oh yes, the Scallops ‘a la Plancha’ ($20), four perfectly-seared bay
scallops served atop a carrot puree, with orange foam and a balsamic
reduction drizzled along the sides. In the mood for steak? Think of
this Entrecote a l’echalote ($28), a prime rib eye steak served with
shallot confit, baby spinach, and wild mushroom fricassee. Not only
is this an exquisite rendering of a classic dish, but at this price
it is a half to a third of what something not as good would cost in
any other restaurant (except perhaps a Robuchon Atelier). My passion
for short ribs is well known, but never fully realized…. until
now. Braised Prime Short Ribs ($26), served with sunchokes mash and a
zesty sauce Bourguignon. I wanted to bottle and take home. And then
a dish I am suggesting for my picky ex, who likes her chicken well
done. His Crispy Chicken ($14), served with a Hearts of Palms salad
and a sweet and sour dressing which works. All desserts are $8 and you
will be remiss if you don’t go for the Panna Cotta, White Peach Espuma
(add the $6 for the caviar topping). I prefer the Sicilian Pistachio
Crème Brulee while some friends preferred the Lemon Parfait with
Almond Chantilly. Chocolate fans will adore the Chocolate Ganache
with caramel emulsion.
I find it hard to contain my enthusiasm for such extraordinary food
in a casually elegant setting at prices which will question your
sanity, or rather that of the Petrossian family for keeping them
so reasonable. But I fully expect that the word will quickly spread
about this brilliant young chef and his extraordinary dishes waiting
for unknowing diners on Robertson. I suggest you go before you can’t
get in!