Isolated: A visit to a forgotten village
23 April 2004
Isolated: A visit to a forgotten village

By Vahan Ishkhanyan ArmeniaNow reporter

When the snow melts, the village of Geghakar restores its connection with
the world.
Geghakar comes out when the snow goes away.

A nearly impassable road is the only link with the outside, and when nature
closes it, Geghakar about 75 miles northeast of Yerevan hibernates until

Until 1989, the village – formerly called Yenikend – was one of the richest
cattle breeding areas of the Gegharkunik region. It was an Azeri settlement
until then. But its population and its livestock industry and a lot of other
things changed when Azeris were no longer welcomed across the nearby border,
and vice versa.

Today Geghakar, like many villages around this part of Lake Sevan, is
populated by refugees from Azerbaijan.

Ruben Karapetyan is 25. In 1990, when he was 11, his family escaped from the
big-city (but dangerous for Armenians) life in Baku, and became villagers.
Other refugees came for Kirovabad, and the former Azeri village became home
to families like Ruben’s.

“It’s very strange how this village was put on a map,” Ruben says.

Ten years ago there was a telephone line connecting Geghakar. But residents
of the village remember that one day someone came to the village from
Vardenis and cut all telephone lines taking them away saying that nobody can
lay a complaint against him. Refugees, who had no support, couldn’t save
their telephone lines.

“Those days they lied to us,” says refugee from Kirovabad Roman Karapetyan.
“They said they would develop the village, install a gas line . . . And then
they put us into an Ikarus (model of bus) and brought us here.”

It is a far measure from life as it was known in Kirovabad or Baku.

Villagers mainly live by growing potatoes and wheat, a task made more
difficult because the village has no irrigation system. They say they cannot
work their croplands because they have no machinery. And even if there were
machinery, they couldn’t afford to buy fuel.

Thirteen families live in Geghakar, about 50 residents. Three times that
many are registered here. Two-thirds of the official population actually
live seven kilometers away in Lusakunk. They come to the village to graze
cattle and to vote. The head of the village also lives in Lusakunk, and
rarely visits his “constituency”. (In general, almost all refugee villages
in the region have heads who are non-refugees.)

The poorest villagers are refugees from Baku, Boris and Irina Kulikyan, who
have seven children.

“We had been living in the city for 35 years. What can we do now? This is
our reality. We have no place to go,” says Boris, who is seriously ill and
cannot do physical work anymore. Their eldest son, who is the main
breadwinner in their family, was called up for military service.

“In summer we can do something, but in winter it is very hard. We can hardly
sell 500-600 kilograms of potatoes and buy firewood. However, I cannot work
the land anymore. In addition, there was terrible heavy rain, which killed
all potatoes.” (In early March a storm and flood caused severe damage to the
region. Many roofs in Geghakar were damaged).

In general, Geghakar has rich resources including wide meadows, croplands
and a quarry. However, villagers insist they don’t make use of them as
quarries belong to a businessman from Vardenis, where only residents from
Vardenis work. And majority of croplands is granted on lease.

“All hayfields belong to head of the village. He thinks only about his
pocket,” says one of the villagers. (ArmeniaNow tried to reach the village
head, but he was not in Geghakar nor in his permanent residence in

There is a medical station in the village, but it is always closed. A nurse
from Lusakunk visits every two months, according to villagers.

Emma Tsaturyan, 62, a refugee from Baku, is the villagers’ means of health
care. Emma gives injections, and, since 1992, has delivered 11 babies. She
is not paid. Neither by the government, nor by the villagers, from whom she
will not even allow a small gift.

“I used to work as a midwife in Baku,” Emma says. “When we were escaping
from Baku I couldn’t take my medical school diploma. Head of the village
didn’t allow me to become a nurse. He said I had no diploma (medical
association of the region appoints nurses, however, head of the village can
offer his candidature).”

There is only one car in the village but it is very old and hardly works.
When somebody is seriously sick, the car becomes an ambulance. But if the
road is closed by snow, or if there is no petrol, patients are taken by
horse. Roman remembers when his daughter was seriously ill he took her to
the city, carrying her along in a sled.

But when a villager is too sick to be moved, he is at the mercy of fate
because it is impossible to call an ambulance. One villager died this winter
as a result.

Geghakar has little to show as improvement since it became this involuntary
home. It has, however, built a school with money given by Diaspora. Twelve
students attend the eight-grade school. Those who wish to study beyond
eighth grade must go to Lusakunk. Few, however, are likely to do so, as it
would require walking 14 kilometers a day on a desolate road. Roman says his
daughter is an excellent pupil, however, after finishing eight years in
school she will not continue her study.

A month ago a bus to Vardenis began operating once every two weeks. However,
it is not clear how long that route will be in use.

At least there was a shop here those days (when the refugees first
settled),” Roman Karapetyan says. “But now even if you die nobody will know
about it. I have arms and legs. I can do everything. We are specialized in
different professions but we sit here and have nothing to do. We can hardly
keep a couple of sheep and cows to be able to exist. How could they bring
citizens to these mountains?

From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress

Emil Lazarian

“I should like to see any power of the world destroy this race, this small tribe of unimportant people, whose wars have all been fought and lost, whose structures have crumbled, literature is unread, music is unheard, and prayers are no more answered. Go ahead, destroy Armenia . See if you can do it. Send them into the desert without bread or water. Burn their homes and churches. Then see if they will not laugh, sing and pray again. For when two of them meet anywhere in the world, see if they will not create a New Armenia.” - WS