Human Rights Defender dispatches task force to Jermuk

Human Rights Defender dispatches task force to Jermuk

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10:40,

YEREVAN, AUGUST 23, ARMENPRESS. Armenia’s Human Rights Defender Arman Tatoyan has dispatched a task force to the town of Jermuk “to get acquainted with the developments regarding the operation of the Amulsar mine”, the Human Rights Defender’s Office said in a news release.

According to the news release the task force will have meetings with locals of Gndevaz, the protesters who are keeping the access to the mine blocked and other civil society representatives.

Separate discussions will also take place in the Jermuk town hall.

The Human Rights Defender’s Office said it has received three reports on August 22 on build-up of police forces in the town, and said it will carry out a monitoring in this regard as well.

Edited and translated by Stepan Kocharyan

PM meets anti-Amulsar mine demonstrators in Jermu

PM meets anti-Amulsar mine demonstrators in Jermuk

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11:09,

YEREVAN, AUGUST 23, ARMENPRESS. Shortly after arriving in Jermuk Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan had a brief conversation with the locals who gathered in the town’s center to demonstrate against the potential operations of the Amulsar gold mine.

One of the protesters emphasized that the assembly is spontaneous and they haven’t been guided.

The PM vowed to once again meet with the demonstrators at the end of his visit to the town.

As the PM left, the demonstrators began marching towards the town hall.

Edited and translated by Stepan Kocharyan

Asbarez: Haigazian University to Honor 4 Board Members at Annual Banquet

Top row, l to r: Dr. Hrair Steven Aharonian, Louis Kurkjian. Bottom row, l to r: Herair Mouradian, Dr. Vahe Nalbandian

LA CAÑADA, Calif.—The Haigazian University Alumni Association and Board of Trustees, with special guest University President, Rev. Dr. Paul A. Haidostian, will recognize four members of the University’s Board of Trustees, who are retiring after lifelong years of devotion and dedication to the University: Dr. Hrair Steven Aharonian, Louis Kurkjian, Herair Mouradian, and Dr. Vahe Nalbandian.

Being aware of the importance of such an institution of higher learning in the Middle East, these four gentlemen have generously given their time, talents, and resources over countless years. Haigazian has valiantly endured through wars, regional conflicts, and unimaginable setbacks, to remain the respected hallmark of education it is today.

Haigazian University was founded under the auspice of the Armenian Missionary Association of America in 1955 and is the only Armenian institution of higher learning outside of Armenia. It has been a beacon of education for Armenians in the Armenian diaspora—lately becoming an oasis for displaced Syrian-Armenian students—further straining the financial resources of the school. Alumni Event Co-Chairs, Katia Kermoyan and Raffi Kendirjian announce all proceeds from this event will go to the Haigazian University Scholarship fund.

This fund-raising event will be held on Sunday, November 3, at the La Cañada Flintridge Country Club, located at 5500 Godbey Drive, La Cañada, 91011. Cocktails and dinner will be served at 5 and 6 p.m., respectively. Tickets are $150. Sponsorships are encouraged.

For additional information on this Alumni event, please call Katia Kermoyan at (818) 281-0352 or send an email.

Asbarez: VivaCell-MTS, Fuller Center Revamp House in Aghavnadzor

FCHA President Ashot Yeghiazaryan (far right) and VivaCell-MTS General Manager Ralph Yirikian (far left) with the Babayan family

AGHAVNADZOR, Armenia—In Aghavnadzor, a village in Armenia’s Vayots Dzor region, a partially built home was renovated. Assisted by VivaCell-MTS and the Fuller Center for Housing Armenia, who have been partnering in the field of housing for several years, the Babayan home has been reconstructed.

The old house, built over 40 years ago, had never been renovated due to health and financial reasons. In 2006, the Babayan’s eldest son, Alik, was confined to a wheelchair due to an accident. It brought on both psychological and serious financial problems for the family. Alik and his younger brother, Artsrun, both worked, but could not renovate the house, as the problems were not few—semi-dark rooms lacking enough windows, dilapidated walls, a leaking roof, a balcony in ruins, a wooden wheelchair ramp, and more.

With the help of the house-building project, the Babayans have already completed the interior works of the house. A heating system will also be installed soon. With the willingness to help the family, the heads and staff members of VivaCell-MTS and the Fuller Center for Housing Armenia united to help complete the construction operations. The volunteers have come together to make decent housing possible. With joint efforts, a new wheelchair ramp was built to replace the old wooden one, and concrete work has been carried out. Having a comfortable home is no longer a dream for the family.

A scene from the renovation of the Babayan home in Aghavnadzor

“For me, having a wheelchair ramp is a necessity today, but the wooden ramp was not very safe. The concrete ramp for the wheelchair is the same as the paved road for a car. Thank you for helping to solve the most important issue for me,” said Alik.

“We ought to come together in order to make our motherland prosperous. We should be able to create something that each of our countrymen can make use of it. I feel blissful when, every time, in some place, we undertake construction works. The group of volunteers, like a circle of salvation, helps to finish the works quicker. I truly believe that inspires not only the people who are in need of a house, but also our colleagues themselves. Only humanity and responsibility enlighten the path of life. This is the way our colleagues think, otherwise they would not work here, as they consider the matter refers to themselves as well,” remarked VivaCell-MTS General Manager Ralph Yirikian.

“Every family has its problems and difficulties. In case of this family, it is important to note that endurance, sense of humor, and the desire to overcome difficulties have not left them, and there are people who are willing to support by giving a helping hand, to ease the burden of years of the family. This is the mission of the housing project,” said Fuller Center for Housing Armenia president Ashot Yeghiazaryan.

A scene from the renovation of the Babayan home

VivaCell-MTS (MTS Armenia CJSC) is Armenia’s leading telecommunications operator, having the widest network reach and spreading a wide range of Voice and Data services all across Armenia. Having the best of the Armenian people interest at heart since its launch on July 1, 2005 and in a short period of time VivaCell-MTS has managed to build a nationwide network and a considerable customer base. VivaCell-MTS drives innovation and aims at always being at the forefront of any development serving the Armenian mobile communications market. The company follows the guidance provided by ISO 26000 (International Standard of Social Responsibility) and ISO/IEC 27001:2013 (Information Security Management System). For more information, visit the website.

Mobile TeleSystems PJSC is the leading telecommunications group in Russia and the CIS, offering mobile and fixed voice, broadband, pay TV as well as content and entertainment services in one of the world’s fastest growing regions. Including its subsidiaries, the Group services over 100 million mobile subscribers in Russia, Ukraine, Armenia and Belarus. Since July 2000, MTS’ Level 3 ADRs have been listed on the New York Stock Exchange (ticker symbol MBT). Additional information about the MTS Group can be found online.

Fuller Center for Housing Armenia is a non-governmental, charitable organization that supports community development in the Republics of Armenia and Artsakh by assisting in building and renovating simple, decent and affordable homes, as well as advocating the right to a decent shelter as a matter of conscience and action. FCHA provides long-term, interest-free loans to low-income families. The monthly repayments flow into a Revolving Fund, which is used to help more families, thereby providing a financial foundation for sustainable development. Since 2008 the Fuller Center for Housing Armenia has assisted about 800 families. For more information, please visit the website or email us.




Asbarez: Ancient Kingdom of Lydia Has Re-Appeared to Haunt Armenia

Lydian International

BY STEPHAN AMATUNI

Lydian International and its Armenian subsidiary are making national headlines in Armenia regarding the highly controversial Amulsar gold mine, which is expected to resume operations after the government indicated it is giving a green light for the project.

However, hundreds if not thousands of environmentalists and others are protesting the move, arguing that it will destroy natural resources and contaminate waters, particularly the Jermuk springs and Lake Sevan.

The fact that Lydian International is registered in the tax-haven of Jersey makes opponents of the project wonder who the real shadowy owner of the company is.

But why is the company called Lydian anyway?

One can assume that the owner or owners of the company got their inspiration from the Iron Age Kingdom of Lydia of western Asia Minor, located east of ancient Ionia in the modern western Turkish provinces of Uşak, Manisa and inland İzmir.

Its logo depicting a lion is the very same lion which is depicted on the famous gold coin of Croesus, the last and most notable king of Lydia. The Lydians were the first to have invented gold coins, according to ancient accounts. Gold from the mines and from the sands of the River Pactolus filled Croesus’ coffers to overflowing.

In Greek and Persian cultures the name of Croesus became a synonym for a wealthy man. He inherited great wealth from his father who had become associated with the Midas mythology, because Lydian precious metals came from the river Pactolus in which King Midas supposedly washed away his ability to turn all he touched into gold.

Croesus’ wealth was in fact so vast that modern day expressions such as “rich as Croesus” or “richer than Croesus” are used to indicate great wealth.

Croesus Treasure aka Karun Treasure

Karun Treasure is the name given to a collection of 363 valuable Lydian artifacts dating from the 7th century BC and originating from Uşak Province in western Turkey, which were the subject of a legal battle between Turkey and New York Metropolitan Museum of Art between 1987 to 1993, and which were returned to Turkey in 1993 after the Museum admitted it had known the objects were stolen when they had purchased them. The collection is alternatively known as the Lydian Hoard.

The curse of the treasure has its origins in 1965, when it was discovered in the village of Güre in the western province of Uşak, Turkey by five villagers who illegally dug up the tumulus of a princess from Lydian times and stole the jewelry that had been buried with her. A year later, villagers robbed the rest of the treasures.
In the 1970s, Boston Globe journalist Robert Taylor and one of the directors at a museum in Boston, Emily Vermeule, had alleged that 219 pieces of Lydian artifacts had been purchased by the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art between 1966 and 1968.

A Turkish journalist, Özgen Acar, who was aware of the situation, happened to see 55 pieces of the Lydian Hoard on display at the museum in New York while he was visiting in 1985 and went on to discover that the rest of the treasure was also being stored there. The Metropolitan Museum or Art described the artifacts as being of Greek origin, which according to Acar and officials at the Uşak Museum, was done with the intent of covering up the actual location of the discovery.

The journalist immediately notified Turkish officials, who started a legal process to take back the artifacts in 1987, just three days before New York Metropolitan Museum of Art would have become the rightful owners of the treasure.
Following a six-year legal battle, the museum agreed that they had known the artifacts had been stolen when they purchased them, and a U.S. federal court in New York decided to return the artifacts back to Turkey.

The collection made sensational news once again in May 2006, when a key piece on display in Uşak Museum, along with the rest of the collection, was discovered to have been switched with a fake.

People in Uşak believe that this treasure is cursed and that it brings nothing but misfortune and death.

Popular rumor has it that all seven men involved in the 1965 illegal digs of the burial mounds in Turkey died violent deaths or suffered great misfortune, according to The Guardian.

Villagers from Uşak told one reporter that one of the thieves had lost three of his sons, one of whom was gruesomely murdered, with his throat slit. His other sons died in two separate traffic accidents, and in different countries. The thief was later paralyzed, and later died.

Another went through a bitter divorce that was followed by the death of his son, who committed suicide.

Bayırlar, who sold the artifacts overseas, was also alleged to have gone through terrible times in his life and died in pain. (Source, Today’s Zaman [September 25, 2011])

Currently, the mysterious artifacts are exhibited in the Uşak Museum of Archaeology.

Even if Lydian International has found its inspiration from the story of the wealthy Lydian king and is hoping to find a treasure in Amulsar, probably it didn’t take into account that those who eventually get their hands on the treasure end up being cursed for life.

The great king of Lydia Croesus probably couldn’t even imagine that he would re-appear thousands of years later in the form of a mining company hungry for gold.

So, who and why named Lydian International after Lydia? Perhaps this doesn’t even matter. Or maybe it does.
But the fact is that both the ancient kingdom and the modern mining company have something in common—a seemingly endless and persistent hunger for gold.

RFE/RL Armenian Report – 08/22/2019

                                        Thursday, 

Armenian Government Funds Election Monitoring In Karabakh

        • Gayane Saribekian

Nagorno-Karabakh -- A football pitch for children and an Armenian church in 
Shushi (Shusha), September 6, 2018.

Armenia’s government allocated on Thursday 33.7 million drams ($70,000) in 
funding to two civil society groups for monitoring upcoming local elections in 
Nagorno-Karabakh.

Voters there will elect on September 8 the mayors of the capital Stepanakert 
and other Karabakh towns and villages as well as local councils.

The mayoral race in Stepanakert is expected to be particularly tight, with five 
candidates participating in it. The city’s incumbent mayor, Suren Grigorian, is 
not seeking reelection.

Prime Minister Nikol Pashinian stressed the importance of the funding provided 
by his government to the Stepanakert office of the Yerevan-based Union of 
Informed Citizens (UIC) and Transparency International’s affiliate organization 
in Armenia. Both groups will use the money for organizing election monitoring 
missions in Karabakh.

“As I said [recently,] the government of Armenia and I personally believe that 
Armenia must help to create additional safeguards in order to guarantee the 
free expression of the Artsakh people’s will,” Pashinian said at a cabinet 
meeting in Yerevan. “This action is part of those measures, which is 
unprecedented, if I’m not mistaken.”

Vahram Tokmajian, the head of the UIC’s Karabakh branch, expects the upcoming 
polls to be watched by a record-high number of local monitors.

“I think that this is very good, for Artsakh (Karabakh) in the first instance,” 
Tokmajian said of the government’s decision. “We will have monitors in around 
40 polling stations, while our partner organization will deploy them in 40 
other polling stations.”

“We will also have mobile groups that will tour various precincts. On top of 
that, we will hold courses for local monitors,” he told RFE/RL’s Armenian 
service.

Karabakh is also scheduled to hold presidential and parliamentary elections 
early next year. The region’s incumbent president, Bako Sahakian, is not 
eligible for another term in office. He has been in power since 2007.

Neither Sahakian nor Pashinian has endorsed any potential presidential 
candidates so far. Speaking at an August 5 rally in Stepanakert, Pashinian said 
the Armenian government will act as a “guarantor” of the freedom and fairness 
of next year’s Karabakh elections.



European Body ‘Ready’ To Advise Armenian Court On Kocharian Case


Armenia -- Former President Robert Kocharian talks to his lawyers during a 
Court of Appeals hearing, Yerevan, June 14, 2019.

Armenia’s Constitutional Court said on Thursday that the Council Europe’s 
Venice Commission has agreed to advise it on the legality of coup charges 
brought against former President Robert Kocharian.

Kocharian was charged last year under Article 300.1of the Armenian Criminal 
Code dealing with violent seizure of power. The accusation stems from the 2008 
post-election street clashes in Yerevan which left ten people dead.

In separate appeals, Kocharian and a district court judge in Yerevan asked the 
Constitutional Court earlier this year to determine whether the Criminal Code 
clause conforms to the Armenian constitution. The high court agreed to hold 
hearings and rule on the appeals.

The court decided in July to ask the Venice Commission and the European Court 
of Human Rights (ECHR) for an “advisory opinion” on the issue. It therefore 
suspended the consideration of the appeals pending formal responses from the 
two Strasbourg-based bodies.

In a short statement, the Constitutional Court said that the Venice 
Commission’s secretary, Thomas Markert, has notified its chairman, Hrayr 
Tovmasian, that the Council of Europe body is “prepared to provide an advisory 
opinion.”

It is not yet clear when the commission’s recommendations could be sent to 
Yerevan. The ECHR has also not indicated any dates for the possible release of 
its opinion on the Kocharian case.

The Constitutional Court’s decision to appeal to Strasbourg was announced one 
day after Prime Minister Nikol Pashinian launched a scathing attack on 
Tovmasian. In an interview with RFE/RL’s Armenian service, Pashinian accused 
him of cutting political deals with former President Serzh Sarkisian to 
“privatize” Armenia’s highest court. Tovmasian rebutted the attack, warning the 
government against trying to force him and his colleagues to resign.



Press Freedom Groups Object To Armenian Government Bill

        • Marine Khachatrian

Armenia -- The main government building in Yerevan, March 29, 2018.

Armenian media freedom groups expressed concern on Thursday about a government 
bill that would make it a crime to publicly call for or justify violence in the 
country.

Under the bill involving amendments to the Armenian Criminal Code drafted by 
the Justice Ministry, such statements would be punishable by fines and up to 
three years in prison. The ministry called for a public debate on the proposed 
amendments when it publicized them last week.

In their written objections submitted to the ministry, civic groups dealing 
with mass media said the bill is too vague and could place unjustified 
restrictions on the freedom of expression.

Shushan Doydoyan, who leads one of those organizations, the Center for Freedom 
of Information, said the Justice Ministry should have specifically defined and 
criminalized instead “hate speech” targeting ethnic, religious and sexual 
minorities and other categories of the population.

“Criminal liability is a very exceptional restriction of the right to freely 
express oneself and it must therefore be applied only in exceptional 
circumstances,” Doydoyan told RFE/RL’s Armenian service. “In our view, the 
exceptional circumstances are only hate speech against which the state can take 
action. But that intervention must have clearly defined grounds.”

Yeghishe Kirakosian, a senior legal aide to Prime Minister Nikol Pashinian, 
insisted earlier that the bill is aimed at doing just that. “This bill is aimed 
at preventing hate speech and any propaganda of violence,” he said.

The bill appears to stem from angry remarks made by Pashinian at a June 6 
cabinet meeting in Yerevan. The prime minister ordered law-enforcement 
authorities to clamp down on groups which he said are advocating political 
violence as part of a “hybrid war” waged against his government.

Pashinian did not name those groups or individuals linked to them. He only 
spoke of “forces directly or indirectly connected to the former corrupt 
system.” The remarks prompted sarcastic reactions from several prominent 
members of the former ruling Republican Party of Armenia (HHK) and other bitter 
critics of the current government.



Minister Urges Trust In Expert Opinion On Amulsar Project

        • Naira Nalbandian
        • Karine Simonian

Armenia - Finance Minister Atom Janjughazian is about to present the 
government's draft budget for 2019 to parliament deputies in Yerevan, 13 
November 2018

Expert opinion must be decisive for the future of a large-scale gold mining 
project in Armenia that was disrupted by protesters last year, Finance Minister 
Atom Janjughazian said on Thursday.

“I believe that one must rely on specialists and the results of audits and be 
guided by that,” Janjughazian told reporters when asked whether he believes the 
Armenian government should allow the Anglo-American company Lydian 
International to develop the Amulsar gold deposit.

“A one-sided evaluation of any issue carries risks. No issue can be examined in 
a one-sided manner because there can always be a disadvantage alongside an 
advantage,” he said without elaborating.

The minister did not explicitly mention a recent environmental audit of the 
Amulsar project which was commissioned by the Armenian government and conducted 
by a Lebanese consulting firm, ELARD. In its final report publicized last week, 
ELARD essentially concluded that the project will not pose serious 
environmental risks if handled properly. In particular, it said that gold 
mining and smelting operations are very unlikely to contaminate mineral water 
sources in the nearby spa resort of Jermuk or rivers and canals feeding 
Armenia’s ecologically vital Lake Sevan.

Citing the findings of the ELARD audit, Prime Minister Nikol Pashinian 
indicated on Monday his government’s intention to enable Lydian to complete the 
construction of the Amulsar mine and produce gold there.

The construction was halted in June 2018 when several dozen protesters began 
blocking all roads leading to Amulsar, saying that mining operations there 
would inflict serious damage on the environment. Lydian, which claims to have 
already invested more than $350 million in the project, dismisses these 
concerns, saying that it will use modern and safe technology.

Janjughazian commented cautiously on the economic impact of Lydian’s renewed 
operations. “Both the functioning and non-functioning of any economic entity 
cannot fail to have an impact,” he said. “In case of its functioning, any 
positive movement generates positive expectations and thereby increases the 
[economic] potential. Conversely, there are negative expectations in the event 
of non-functioning.”

“So not only the direct but also indirect impact is important here,” added 
Janjughazian.

Deputy Economy Minister Avag Avanesian said on Tuesday that mining at Amulsar 
would speed up economic growth in Armenia, boost the country’s tax revenue and 
result in thousands of new jobs.

Other officials, notably Deputy Prime Minister Tigran Avinian, have warned that 
the Armenian government will be taken to an international court of arbitration 
and risk huge financial penalties if it pulls the plug on the project without 
strong legal grounds.

Nevertheless, environment protection activists and some opposition politicians 
remain strongly opposed to the U.S.-backed project. Some parliament deputies 
representing Pashinian’s My Step alliance have also spoken out against it.

But other pro-government lawmakers support the government’s apparent 
Amulsar-related plans. One of them, Babken Tunian, the chairman of the Armenian 
parliament committee on economic issues, on Thursday dismissed calls for a 
referendum on Amulsar made by senior members of the opposition Prosperous 
Armenia and Dashnaktsutyun parties.

“Sometimes voters can be mistaken over a concrete issue because of not having 
sufficient knowledge of or information about it,” Tunian wrote on his Facebook 
page.

Also backing Lydian’s renewed activities was Hanrapetutyun, a pro-Western party 
that was allied to Pashinian until last year. “It’s not every day that $400 
million is invested in the Armenian economy, and failure to take advantage of 
that would definitely have severe consequences,” said the Hanrapetutyun leader, 
Aram Sarkisian.

Meanwhile, the mayor of Jermuk and nearby villages making up a single 
administrative unit spoke of a “very difficult situation” existing in the 
community. “Jermuk has never been in such a situation before,” Vartan 
Hovannisian told RFE/RL’s Armenian. He said he wants to see more government 
guarantees that gold mining will not harm Jermuk’s tourism industry.

Hovannisian said he maintains regular contacts with both the protesters 
blocking the Amulsar roads and Lydian executives. “I’m between the devil and 
the deep sea,” he complained. “The issue has started having very bad 
manifestations.

“These [protesters] have vowed not to open the roads. But the prime minister 
has said that they can’t fail to open them. This is creating a problem.”

The mayor also said that Pashinian is planning to visit Jermuk and speak to 
local residents concerned about the Amulsar project in the coming days or weeks.



Press Review


“If people had the right to block streets to ‘reject Serzh’ then they have the 
same rights when rejecting the exploitation of the Amulsar mine,” writes 
“Aravot.” In this regard, the paper criticizes authorities for not allowing 
activists protesting against the gold mine to enter a public park located 
inside the parliament compound in Yerevan. It says that the activities of 
Armenian environment protection groups “deserve respect” and must not be 
hampered. The paper says at the same time that opponents of the Amulsar project 
must not attempt to “muzzle” and “blackmail” those who support it. “The Amulsar 
issue is not only an ecological but also legal, political and economic one,” it 
says.

“Haykakan Zhamanak” notes that “many members of the ruling team have gone 
underground and are not uttering a word regarding Amulsar.” “Since when has 
silence become a sign of being principled?” asks the paper linked to Prime 
Minister Nikol Pashinian. “The real reason [for their silence] is simple fear. 
Those who are in favor of the mine’s exploitation are afraid of making that 
clear in public lest they be branded ‘traitors’ on Facebook, while those who 
are against the project fear the authorities’ ire. If they are scared of 
Facebook reactions how will they behave over more serious issues that could 
emerge later?”

“Zhamanak” wonders if the Amulsar controversy will lead to the breakup of 
Pashinian’s My Step alliance. The paper notes that some parliament deputies 
representing My Step have spoken out against the government’s apparent plans to 
allow a Western mining company to restart the project disrupted over a year 
ago. “My Step’s parliamentary group is a multi-layered team formed by the 
[2018] revolution for which the Amulsar issue is only the first political 
test,” it says. “Many, many other [contentious] issues are going to arise soon. 
This is not an apocalyptic prediction but the inevitable reality of governing a 
state that is located in a tough region and has serious security challenges.”

(Lilit Harutiunian)


Reprinted on ANN/Armenian News with permission from RFE/RL
Copyright (c) 2019 Radio Free Europe / Radio Liberty, Inc.
1201 Connecticut Ave., N.W. Washington DC 20036.
www.rferl.org



Culture: Summer Readings & Screenings: ‘Armenian Sketchbook’ & ‘The Color of Pomegranates’

Commonweal Magazine
Aug 23 2019
‘Armenian Sketchbook’ & ‘The Color of Pomegranates’
n this third installment of our summer conversation series, we discuss two works about the ancient culture of Armenia, Vasily Grossman’s An Armenian Sketchbook (1962) and Sergei Parajanov’s The Color of Pomegranates (1969).

For our next and final installment, in two weeks, we’ll read Henry James’s classic novella Washington Square (1880), along with William Wyler’s film adaptation, The Heiress (1949). Catch up our previous discussions here and here.

 

Tony,

I’ve done my fair share of traveling, but I’ve never come across a landscape quite as dramatic as the one Vasily Grossman describes in his 1962 travelogue An Armenian Sketchbook. What makes the country’s geography so alluring is the fact that everything, even the fields and flowers, seems to be made entirely of stone: “The first thing I saw in Armenia was stone; and what I took away when I left was a memory of stone…. There is no beginning or end to this stone.”

Of course, there’s a deeper meaning to Armenia’s rocky aesthetic. The polished basalt that lies about the countryside bears silent witness to centuries of suffering—the Armenian genocide occurred just forty years prior to Grossman’s trip. But it also reflects resolve and resilience, a determination to survive and flourish no matter the circumstances.

It was Grossman’s reputation as a war writer that occasioned his trip to Armenia. One of the Soviet Union’s greatest writers, he’s known for a pair of World War II novels, Stalingrad and Life and Fate, both modeled on Tolstoy’s War and Peace. Though Grossman knew no Armenian, the Soviet Writers’ Union had asked him to help translate an Armenian war novel into Russian. He found the task considerably less energizing than learning about the lives of the different people he met there—mostly humble villagers, but also scientists, artists, doctors, journalists, scholars, and religious leaders. It’s these chance encounters, often comical, but sometimes profound, that occasion Grossman’s more serious meditations on the dangers of nationalism, the moral duties of literature, and the nature of religious faith.

What captivated me most about An Armenian Sketchbook is Grossman’s playful, flexible tone. His fiction sometimes suffers from an overly formal, ponderous logic, where you get the sense that he’s just saying things because he thinks he’s obligated to say them. (As a writer working within the Soviet system, he usually did have to, though he frequently fought with his editors for greater license.) Here in Armenia, though, Grossman’s mind and soul roam free. Early on, he spends time describing the Armenian people:

I saw faces with a classic, antique beauty, perfect ovals, with small straight noses and pale-blue almond-shaped eyes; I saw people with elongated, sharp faces and huge, sharp, hooked noses; I saw people whose hair was so black as to be almost blue, with eyes like coals; I saw the thin lips of Jesuits and the thick protuberant lips of Africans. 

Armenia, Grossman muses, has been at the crossroads of civilizations for more than three millennia: that’s what explains the physical diversity he finds there. This realization prompts a long riff on the stupidity and dangers of nationalism, where unthinking “reactionaries” reduce a country’s inhabitants to a single, superficial type, thereby destroying their deeper, more essential qualities—and their freedom. Grossman clearly has the oppressive Soviet Union in mind, but his forceful, unequivocal condemnation of nationalist ideologies is just as urgent today: “It is time we recognized,” Grossman warns, “that all men are brothers.”

Grossman’s not interested in depicting reality as we think it should be, but rather in representing the world as it really is.

A similar urgency informs Grossman’s views on literature: he’s not interested in depicting reality as we think it should be, but rather in representing the world as it really is. Soviet literary theory, practiced and taught by writers like Maxim Gorky (who’d promoted Grossman’s career early on) required writers to portray the perfectly just, classless society toward which Communism tended. Fiction had to be aspirational, not actual.

There’s a parallel here with the utopian longings of religion, and in particular Christianity. The Christian emphasis on eschatology, with its focus on the joyful world to come, always risks eclipsing our attentiveness to the fallen one we inhabit right now. Through a series of short, provisional bursts of insight, Grossman (a self-proclaimed atheist) declares that he’s having none of this:

Perfect worlds do not exist. There are only the funny, strange, weeping, singing, truncated, and imperfect universes created by the gods [i.e. human artists] who infuse their creations with their own blood, their own soul. When he looks at these worlds, the true Lord of Hosts, the creator of the universe, probably cannot help but smile mockingly.

Grossman is half-kidding here, but he goes on to ask more serious questions of theodicy: How can the same good God, who created a world of beauty and freedom, also have created Hitler, Himmler, and Eichmann? Grossman was born Jewish, and his encounter with Armenia’s ancient Christianity frees him to ask deeper questions about his religious roots.

Tony, how would you respond to Grossman’s questions? And we still need to consider Sergei Parajanov’s 1969 masterpiece The Color of Pomegranates—a “funny, strange, weeping, singing” film if ever there was one!

**

Griffin,

I was struck by all of those stony descriptions, too. Like the best writers of place, Grossman possesses a bifocal vision—seeing the Armenian landscape both in its absolute particularity and in its symbolic grandeur.

In the opening pages, for instance, Grossman notices both the “dense scatterings of stone” around houses in an Armenian village and the “flat, stony steppe” that the sheep move across (“probably they eat powdered stone and drink the dust of stone,” Grossman jokes). But looking at specific stones in specific locations, Grossman always pivots towards the allegorical. For him, stones are portals into and markers of time—the deep time of Armenian history, as you say, but also the deeper time of geology. As he writes, “Time had aged the mountains; time had killed the mountains—and here lay the mountain’s bones.” In Grossman’s vision, a stone is a stone, but it’s also time’s ravages.

I hadn’t read Grossman before, so I was surprised to hear you describe his other works as occasionally “overly formal,” even “ponderous.” This is a writer, after all, who includes a set piece in which his rapturous musings upon the Armenian soul (“Here we see all of Eastern life: the tenderness of the heart, the peristalsis of the gut, the firing of synapses”) are interrupted by the call of nature—and by a subsequent and frenzied search for a place to relieve himself: “The whole world—architecture, the outlines of mountains, plants and trees, people’s customs and habits—everything is now subordinated to a single longing.”

In one of the book’s final scenes, Grossman is taking part in a wedding procession when he again feels an inconvenient bodily urge. After the earlier scene, it’s a bit of an easy laugh, even if Grossman does build comic tension—sentence by sentence, gurgle-in-the-gut by gurgle-in-the-gut—in masterful fashion. But then he arrives at the wedding ceremony, and the comedy of the body gives way to the solemnity of ritual:

Each of the guests was given a thin wax candle, and holding hands, we began to dance a slow and solemn round dance. Two hundred people—old men and old women, young boys and girls—all holding lighted candles, moved slowly and solemnly the length of the rough stone walls; the little lights swayed in their hands. I saw interlaced fingers; I saw a chain that would never rust or break—a chain of dark-brown laboring hands; I saw many little lights.

A still from ‘The Color of Pomegranates’ (Criterion Collection)

This wedding tableau reminds me of The Color of Pomegranates. Like Grossman’s wedding dance, the film moves “slowly and solemnly,” suggesting that, despite suffering, there is something—artistic creation, sacred ceremony—that endures.

At one level, The Color of Pomegranates has a simple, linear plot. It follows the life of Sayat-Nova, an eighteenth-century Armenian troubadour-poet, moving from his childhood spent dying wool and loving books; to his years at the royal court, where he plays the lyre, falls in love with the king’s sister, and is ultimately banished; to his later years as a monk, baptizing and burying and consecrating; finally, to his death.

But if ever there were a work that suffers from plot summary, this is it. At the beginning of the film, white-on-black text informs us that this is:

not the story of a poet’s life. Instead, the filmmaker has attempted to recreate the world of a poet—the modulation of his soul, his passions, and his torments—broadly utilizing the symbolism and allegories of medieval Armenian troubadours.

Parajanov is a realist; it’s just that he’s after a deeper realism than we’re accustomed to.

Indeed, the film doesn’t narrate Sayat-Nova’s life so much as suggest it by a series of rigorously composed images. Suffused in bright blues and reds and golds, largely lacking dialogue, the images resemble Armenian illuminated miniatures—highly stylized paintings that have begun to move, often in ritualized, choreographed fashion. (The camera itself remains still throughout.)

Some of Parajanov’s images are purely symbolic: three pomegranates bleeding red onto a white sheet; a woman, dressed in red and black, holding a seashell over her left breast, the shell caressed by white lace. Others exist somewhere between visual poetry and narrative incident: an older Sayat-Nova digs a grave in the floor of a cathedral, surrounded by hundreds of lambs.

Intercut with these images are scraps of language, sometimes voiced and sometimes presented on screen, almost all centering on the experiences of passion and suffering that lead to poetry and religion: “I am the man whose life and soul are torment”; “The bread you offered was beautiful, but the earth is more beautiful still.”

In other words, Parajanov takes on many of the same questions as Grossman: Why do we suffer? What value do beauty and ritual have in our vale of tears? The Color of Pomegranates may be less flexible in its tone than An Armenian Sketchbook. But it’s just as daring in the terrain it covers—and more daring in its rigorous commitment to a distinctive form and style.

Did The Color of Pomegranates move you as much as it moved me, Griffin? How would you compare Parajanov’s brand of realism to Grossman’s?

**

Tony,

I think you’re absolutely right: both Grossman and Parajanov share a deep commitment to realism, to art as a means of getting at the truth. It’s just that their emphasis falls on different spheres of human activity: Grossman on the political, and Parajanov on the numinous.

Grossman approaches religion skeptically, but he’s barely able to suppress his curiosity. Recall the scene when he drives into the mountains, through the Semyonov Pass. Struck by the “vastness of the sky and the infinite forest,” Grossman daydreams about performing “heroic feats of asceticism” and living as a hermit. But then something holds him back, as he makes “a beast of himself,” getting drunk and waking up in a nauseous stupor.

The spiritual purity Grossman seeks is rooted not “in the words of a priest in his church” (he’d been disheartened by his meeting with the worldly Vazgen I, Catholicos of All Armenians) but in something more vital. It’s in the “awkward, ungrammatical peasant speech” of ordinary villagers, far removed from the capital, Yerevan, that Grossman finds a “great power”—that is, an unpretentious faith that’s one and the same “with everything in their long hard lives.”

Grossman never says it explicitly, but he’s looking for a window into faith.

And that’s the same faith depicted on screen in Parajanov’s The Color of Pomegranates. The images and sounds, foreign as they are, have a refreshing immediacy. Recall the shot with a group of monks, greedily devouring pomegranates as they rest after laboring in the fields, or the repeated performances of a group of mimes, who literally speak with their bodies. The messages they communicate are elemental (the passion of eros, the tragedy of death), and whenever they move, we don’t so much think about these emotions as feel them.

What The Color of Pomegranates crystallized for me was the gap between the medieval world and our own. It’s not just that our material realities are different, but that we’ve lost the sense of myth, and religious allegory, as the symbols that structure our lives. How many of us can truly say that, like Sayat-Nova, we understand the world and all it contains as a luminous “window” into heaven?

Though Grossman never says it explicitly, that’s exactly what he’s looking for: a window into faith. I’m struck by just how religious Grossman’s sensibility is, despite his professed atheism. After all, this is an author whose earlier journalism wryly compared Nazi soldiers in the death camps at Treblinka to demons from Dante’s Inferno; whose fiction lovingly detailed the sights and sounds of family life in the Jewish ghettos; and who views Raphael’s Sistine Madonna as an _expression_ of the suffering not just of Christians, or the Jewish people in the Holocaust, but of all of history’s poor and downtrodden masses.

Suffering, and longing for a justice that transcends what’s available here on earth—that’s what lies at the root of Grossman’s religiosity. His life was marked by it: over decades he’d lost friends and family to the death-dealing logic of totalitarianism. And his raw familiarity with grief enables him to enter into communion with the Armenians as, during the wedding scene you mentioned, they rise for a toast: “Other people—old and young—got to their feet to address me. All spoke about the Jews and the Armenians, about how blood and suffering had brought them together.”

Before this acknowledgment of real human suffering, Grossman, the gregarious journalist and great novelist, finds himself at a loss for words. All his life, he says, he’s refused to bow before anyone. Not here: he falls silent and prostrates himself on the ground.

An Armenian Sketchbook
Vasily Grossman
NYRB Classics, $14.95, 160 pp.

The Color of Pomegranates
Sergei Parajanov
Criterion Collection, $23.96, 78 min.

Culture: The Matenadaran: This medieval manuscript collection has some of the most obscure and ancient texts in the world.

Atlas Obscura
Aug 23 2019

Armenia has had a rich tradition of scriptoriums for over a millennium. Throughout the Middle Ages, very active scriptoriums were found in towns near the shores of the Mediterranean, on Lake Van, in Jugha, Tatev, and many other spots. The illustrated manuscripts were especially valued, as they were painted in actual gold or silver. 

Unfortunately, Armenia also has a long history of being invaded, and has seen its libraries plundered and burned too many times. Tired of this, in 1959 the Soviet Armenian government decided to step in and build a massive fortress on a hill in the center of the capital, with storage deep in the earth, and gather as many manuscripts as it could there for safekeeping.

Thus, the Mesrop Mashtots Institute of Ancient Manuscripts was born. The name being cumbersome, it’s been popularly called the Matenadaran ever since, which is a combination of the Armenian words for “parchment” and “repository.” Outside the building stands a statue of the institute’s namesake, Mesrop Mashtots, the inventor of the Armenian alphabet.

With over 23,000 manuscripts and 500,000 additional documents, some of the most obscure and ancient texts from the early medieval age can be found at the Matenadaran. There is a 9th-century gospel, and the ivory-carved cover of a 6th-century gospel as well. The Vehamor Gospel, probably dating to the 7th century, is the oldest-known complete Armenian manuscript in the world. There are manuscripts in other languages, from Greek to Ethiopian, and some works by renowned foreign authors that were almost lost to history, and only saved by their Armenian translations at the Matenadaran.

Know Before You Go

Most of the works in the vast collection are only accessible by researchers, but the display rooms feature a stunning array of hand-chosen manuscripts that give an excellent glimpse into the rest of the collection.


Sports: FC Ararat-Armenia wins F91 Dudelange in first leg of Europa League play-off

Panorama, Armenia
Aug 23 2019
Sport 15:10 23/08/2019 Armenia

The UEFA Europa League play-ff first leg match between Armenian champion FC Ararat-Armenia  and F91 Dudelange from Luxembourg was played at Republic Stadium in Yerevan on August 22. FC Ararat-Armenia won with a score of 2:1, the goals scored by Milson Liman (22’) and Ivan Antonov (94’). The Armenian side will play  the second leg on August 29.

If the Armenia side overcomes the play-off, it will play in the group stage of the Europa League for the first time in the history of the Armenian football.


Sports: Ararat-Armenia wants to realize the whole nation’s dream next week

MediaMax, Armenia
Aug 23 2019
 
 
Ararat-Armenia wants to realize the whole nation’s dream next week
 
 
 
Ararat-Armenia players are happy to have started in the Europa League play-off with a win. Last night Vardan Minasyan’s men beat Dudelange (Luxembourg) 2-1 with a late winner.
 
A week later the Armenian team will travel to Luxembourg and, if the second leg ends in a win too, reach the group stage.
 
Georgi Pashov
 
I am thankful to the fans who supported us so much. In the first half, we attacked well, but we grew a bit tired in the second and conceded a goal. I congratulate the boys, they demonstrated strong will and scored another. Of course, I’m happy, but this is just the first leg and everything will be decided next week.
 
Photo: FC Ararat-Armenia
 
 
Petros Avetisyan
 
The mood in the team is great, but we can’t lose focus, because a 2-1 score is dangerous. We need to keep fighting to reach the group stage. This is not only ours, but also the whole nation’s dream, and we intend to realize it.
 
Anton Kobyalko
 
It was a very hard-fought win. Our will and the fans’ support helped us. It’s a pity we conceded a goal, but we created more chances and deserved to win.