CIS Security Services To Hold Antiterror Exercises In Armenia

CIS SECURITY SERVICES TO HOLD ANTITERROR EXERCISES IN ARMENIA

ITAR-TASS, Russia
Sept 25 2006

MOSCOW, September 25 (Itar-Tass) – Security services of the Collective
Security Treaty Organisation (CSTO) countries will be held at the
Armenian nuclear power plant on September 26-29, the CIS Antiterrorist
Centre’s chief Colonel-General Boris Mylnikov said.

He told reporters on Monday that the Atom – Antiterror 2006
operative-strategic exercises would be a drill of planning and
conducting the search "to reveal and destroy sabotage groups that
infiltrated the territory of Armenia and seized a nuclear power plant
in the city of Metsamor".

Workers of the Armenian National Security Service and the Russian
Federal Security Service’s Special Task Centre will act as "terrorists"
secretly moving in Armenia, Mylnikov said.

He said that antiterrorists divisions of CIS security services would
hold the exercises of this scale for the first time jointly with the
allied headquarters of the CSTO and Armenian army units that are a
part of the CSTO Collective Rapid Deployment Forces.

The Armenian National Security Service and antiterrorist units of the
FSB Special Task Centre will play a main role in the exercises. When
"terrorists" are spotted, the Armenian army’s motorised infantry
battalion of the Collective Rapid Deployment Forces in the
Trans-Caucasus and two companies of special forces will join the
action, Mylnikov said.

Representatives of G8 countries, the antiterrorist division of the
OSCE Secretariat, the counter-terrorist committee of the UN Security
Council, the UN Office on Drugs and Crime and the Shanghai Cooperation
Organisation’s Regional Antiterrorist Structure have been invited to
the exercises in a capacity of observers.

"Azerbaijan has refused to participate in the exercises considering
the complex relations with Armenia because of a lack of settlement
of the Nagorno-Karabakh problem," Mylnikov said.

FAR Congress in Yerevan

AZG Armenian Daily #181, 23/09/2006

Event

FAR CONGRESS IN YEREVAN

It has been 15 years now that the Fund for Armenian
Relief (FAR) functions in Armenia. With its 18
thousand employees FAR today organizes new projects
and sets new goals. With a purpose to present and
discuss these projects and goals FAR yesterday
convened a meeting titled "Fund for Armenian Relief
Serving Fatherland and Armenians." It was said that
thanks to its representatives in 56 settlements of
Armenia FAR manages to get first hand information
about problems and priorities all over the country and
to implement its projects. Thanks to Armenian and
foreign benefactors, from 1992 to date FAR has taken
care after 7418 orphans in 30 countries. It is planned
to carry out a project for orphaned students that
would help relieve their burden. Within the framework
of its project of kindergarten construction, FAR has
already built 14 kindergartens in Artsakh. The
activity of FAR optics is well-known: for many years
it has been providing glasses to socially vulnerable
people free of charge. FAR’s projects are versatile,
and deputy of the National Assembly, chairman of FAR’s
regional department, Alvard Petrosian, says the Fund’s
activities go in line with the challenges that Armenia
faces. In Armen Rustamaian’s words, chairman of
foreign relations committee at the parliament, the
most vital of the challenges is securing a safe place
for Armenia in a world that heads for globalization
meanwhile looking at the human values through the
national prism. FAR has demonstrated a good example of
the latter during the 96 years of its existence,
Rustamian said. In his greeting speech vice-speaker of
the National Assembly Vahan Hovhannisian highly
assessed FAR’s activities and its prospects.

By Nana Petrosian

Investigation Of Armenian Jet Crash Going On

INVESTIGATION OF ARMENIAN JET CRASH GOING ON

PanARMENIAN.Net
22.09.2006 13:34 GMT+04:00

/PanARMENIAN.Net/ The investigation of the Armenian A-320 jet crash
has not been completed yet, Russian Prosecutor General Yuri Chayka
told reporter in Yerevan today. "The investigation is not over yet
and a number of examinations are being carried out.

Presently an aerotechnical forensic examination is being conducted to
reveal possible faults of the aircraft, violations of rules by the
crew and flying control officers. Now we are awaiting the results
and then decide on those guilty," he said.

For his part, Armenian Prosecutor General Aghvan Hovsepyan emphasized
that the case serves as example of close cooperation between the
prosecution offices of the two states. "After the criminal case was
initiated our investigators departed for the crash site and held
a number of examinations jointly with the Russian team," he said,
reported newsarmenia.ru

"Geghard" Represents Armenian Dance in Festival in Greece

AZG Armenian Daily #180, 21/09/2006

Culture

"GEGHARD" REPRESENTS ARMENIAN DANCE IN FESTIVAL IN
GREECE

On August 21-28, the Ninth International Dance
Festival took place in Agrinion, Greece. Various folk
dance groups from dozens of countries arrive in Greece
every summer to participate in the festival. Agrinion
becomes a capital of culture where representatives of
different cultures have the chance to cooperate.

This year, dance groups from Armenia, Greece, Moldova,
Poland, Russia, Georgia, Italy, Czech Republic and
from other countries perform their folk dances at the
festival. Armenia is represented by "Geghard" folk
dance group at the festival. The dance group is well
known in Syria, Jordan, France, Egypt, Bulgaria, Iraq
and elsewhere. The dance group was established 25
years ago and managed to win many prizes and diplomas.

The Armenian dancers were perfectly prepared for the
festival and won the hearts of the foreign art lovers.
They performed "kochari," "shalakho," "shatakhin and
other Armenian dances at the festival.

Albert Kizirian, the founder and the leader of
"Geghard," emphasized the importance of participating
in such festivals from the viewpoints of cultural
cooperation and the international recognition of the
Armenian culture.

By Gayane Khachatrian

WB Expert: Armenia Doesn’t Properly Use Diaspora’s Potential To Acce

WB EXPERT: ARMENIA DOES NOT PROPERLY USE DIASPORA’S POTENTIAL TO ACCELARATE ITS ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT

ARMINFO News Agency
September 19, 2006 Tuesday

At the Armenia-Diaspora conference in Yerevan Yevgeni Kuznetsov,
World Bank Senior Economist told an ArmInfo correspondent that
Armenia doesn’t properly use the Diaspora’s potential to accelerate
its economic development.

In Armenia money is invested mostly in infrastructure and
humanitarian programs. It is a "very shortsighted policy" and has
no relation to the country’s economic development. Armenia should
get science-intensive direct investments from the industrialized
countries with large Armenian communities, for example, France and
USA. First and foremost, it is necessary to attract investments from
transnational corporations. India is a good example of effective use
of Diaspora potential. The Indian Diaspora opened IBM and Motorola
scientific centers in the country and saw that they successfully
operate. Kuznetsov noted that the Diaspora itself should invest
no money, because Armenia is not China. For the inflow of such
investments Armenia should implement a number of interim projects to
develop cooperation between the Diaspora and the local authorities
and businessmen. It should start with raising the quality of higher
education to the international standards and establishing links with
the economy. The WB expert advises Armenia to create a center of
postal tuition and fund of venture capital.

ANKARA: Y. Soylemez AKP’s Loss Of Appetite For The EU

Y. SOYLEMEZ AKP’S LOSS OF APPETITE FOR THE EU

Turkish Daily News
September 18, 2006 Monday

It is now the "secret de Polishinelle" that even the tightlipped EU
bureaucrats cannot hide the public secret that Prime Minister Recep
Tayyip Erdogan’s Justice and Development Party (AKP) government
has lost much of its politically gastronomic choice, which was the
appetite of a "gourmet" only three years ago. There is no denying that
the AKP had previously put the EU question as a first priority goal
in their foreign policy agenda, a pivotal item of declared essence
that is now on a slow fire, to say nothing of the back burner.

The reasons why and how the AKP government has regressed since last
October with no visible implementation or action are quite a few.

Primarily, the European Court of Human Rights headscarf decision
no doubt cast a severe blow to the AKP’s main goal in attaining EU
membership. This was more than a disappointment that backfired. The
EU refused to be used as an instrument against secularist principles.

Secondly, the EU kept on forcing the Cyprus issue as a means of
permanent political pressure over the AKP government, knowing full
well that it was too much too bear for the Erdogan government as no
concessions were possible on their part, or for any Turkish party or
government, for that matter. Thirdly, the important psychological
factor that "the EU does not want Turkey, so we don’t want the EU"
feeling in the body politic became widespread. As expected, support for
the EU has decreased from 78 percent to 54 percent in the time since
Turkey’s candidature was approved and a semblance of negotiations in
the form of the Screening Process started and completed.

In spite of some positive and encouraging statements about the way
the screening process is going on the technical level, the loss of
appetite for the process has been obvious. Those involved in the
process while comparing notes about the acquis were in no way ready
to bind themselves on any issue regarding the future membership. Ali
Babacan, the chief negotiator for Turkey’s EU accession talks was
conspicuous by his absence from Brussels, by not being present at
the scene of activity and decision to canvas and to socialize. This
was naturally interpreted as a tactical display of a lack of interest
and a message that a non-committal attitude had prevailed.

This declining interest, which started at the end of last year,
seems to be of critical importance for Turkey-EU relations. The
process of negotiations may well go off the rails, causing a much
feared "train crash" which is a catastrophic eventuality, mainly due
to the impasse over the Cyprus problem. Ever since Turkey signed the
Additional Protocol last year the EU has been blunt on insisting that
by signing the Additional Protocol Turkey promised to open sea and air
ports to Greek Cyprus and that promise must be kept. That protocol,
though signed on behalf of Turkey, has not yet been submitted to the
Turkish Parliament for ratification, a legal necessity before it can
be adopted. The EU professes to understand Turkey’s predicament and
the fairness of quid pro quo that before this can be done, first and
foremost the isolation of the KKTC must be ended, but the EU is at
the same time unwilling to apply any pressure that this isolation be
ended. Thus there is a dialogue of the deaf but not the dumb. This
all means that the EU and Turkey are about to arrive at a dangerous
juncture in a relationship into which both are locked.

The EU’s Candidate Countries Director-General Pierre Mirel, in a
recent interview with Kriter magazine, analyzed the situation thus,
and I agree with him: "It cannot be denied that there is an impression
that Turkey has lost its excitement, or urge, for the EU.

Turkey does not seem to understand the importance of the Oct. 3,
2005 decision taken under very difficult conditions, in a political
environment that was against the enlargement of the EU. It is very
disappointing to see disinterest rather than an appreciating stand."

He added that "Turkey seems to be behaving not as a future partner
but as an opposing party." Indeed an example of this attitude can be
seen in the prime minister’s negative remarks vis-a-vis suspension of
negotiations over the past few months. What now seems a possibility is
that the Free Circulation of Goods, Customs Union and Transportation
chapter may not be opened but instead frozen because of the Cyprus
"Sword of Damocles" during September. This may even be followed at
the beginning of 2007 by suspension of negotiations between Turkey
and the EU.

Dutch rapporteur Camiel Eurlings’ Turkey report will be discussed
in the European Parliament around Sept. 25-28. It is an ice cold
shower for Turkey quite apart from the Cyprus issue. There are 343
motions in the report on matters like women’s rights, the Armenian,
Pontus and Syriac "genocides," recognition of the rights of Turkish
Alawis and Yezidi minority rights, headscarves should be permitted in
universities (in spite of the Strasbourg ruling), the reopening of the
Greek Orthodox seminary on Heybeliada, as promised a few years ago,
withdrawal of Turkish troops from Cyprus, in addition to the opening
of Turkish Cypriot ports to Greek Cypriots. The report itself is
somewhat self-contradictory, in that the Armenian issue was added at
the last moment, as Eurlings confessed, although it is not something
new in that the European Parliament had already adopted an Armenian
genocide claim in 1987) saying that recognition of genocide should not
be made part of the criteria or preconditions for Turkey’s membership,
but those words of his are not reflected or contained in the report,
which is all the more surprising in view of the fact that Eurlings
is from Holland, 55 percent of whose population supports Turkey’s
candidature while Turkey’s support for its own membership according
to an opinion poll in July 2006 has fallen to 54 percent.

Although Eurlings says that he "wants Turkey’s membership to the EU
with all his heart and mind as an important alternative for Turkey"
his report does not reflect any positive thinking. Even so, his
report must be taken seriously because it reflects the general lack
of interest in Turkey’s membership not only by Turkey but by the
major political groups in the EU Parliament. Sadly, such a negative
report that has been described in the Western media variously as a
warning or even a slap, will not be conducive to more cooperation
but rather help further estrangement and lack of trust for the future
between Turkey and the European Union. This report is a wake up call
heralding a serious crisis that can either lead to a calamity or in
the famous words of Laurens Van der Post instead be an opportunity
for both sides to use the sword of Alexander to cut the Gordion Knot.

Report On Missing Persons In Karabakh And Abkhazia To Be Presented A

REPORT ON MISSING PERSONS IN KARABAKH AND ABKHAZIA TO BE PRESENTED AT PACE WINTER SESSION

Public Radio of Armenia
Sept 18 2006

In January 2007 the report on the missing persons in Nagorno
Karabakh and Abkhazia will be presented at the winter session of the
Parliamentary Assembly of the Council of Europe, PACE Rapporteur on
Missing Persons Leo Platvoet told the journalists today. He said,
in particular, that his visit falls in the framework of the program
of International Committee of the Red Cross on exchange of prisoners
of war and missing persons. He noted that it is important not to
politicize the question and to cooperate. All the sides are ready for
cooperation, the Rapporteur noted, informing that the major aim of
his report is to collect information about the condition of prisoners
of war in the region.

UEFA Futsal Cup

Perth path for group rivals
Wednesday, 13 September 2006

Fair City Santos make Scotland’s UEFA Futsal Cup debut on Wednesday
and they have the honour of home advantage in preliminary round Group A.

Free admission
Santos welcome three teams to their home city of Perth
– their opening opponents, competition newcomers FC
Adana Yerevan of Armenia, second-time entrants Roubaix
Futsal from France, and Futsal Mad Max, the first club
to represent Finland in the competition. And to ensure
decent crowds on Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday,
admission is free at the Bell’s Sports Centre.

One team through
The home side earned their qualification last month
with victory in the Scottish Futsal Premier League
Serie A play-offs, the last team to earn their entry.
Roubaix are in Britain for the second year running
having been pipped in London 12 months ago by Dinamo
Tbilisi of Georgia and Adana’s Armenian rivals Tal
Grig Yerevan. However, this time only one team from
the pool will advance, into Main round Group 3 against
Sporting Clube de Portugal, Macedonian champions KMF
Alfa Parf Skopje and Polish hosts Chorzów from 9-12
October.

©uefa.com 1998-2006.

Neither Arabic Language, Flag Nor Political Islam In South Kurdistan

NEITHER ARABIC LANGUAGE, FLAG NOR POLITICAL ISLAM IN SOUTH KURDISTAN
By Kamal Rajab

KurdishMedia.UK
9/14/2006 KurdishMedia.com

Today the majority of Kurds are officially Muslim, belonging to
the Shafi School, and to a much lesser degree, the Hannafi School ,
both of Sunni Islam.

There is also a significant minority of Kurds that are Shiaa Muslims,
primarily living in the Ilam and Kermanshah provinces of Iran and
Central Iraq ("Al-Fayliah" Kurds). The Alevis are another religious
minority among the Kurds, mainly found in Turkey.

According to some claims, Kurds are also thought to be a kind of angel
worship that is an offshoot of Zoroastrianism. Today it is called
Yezidism and is only practiced by about 700,000 Kurds worldwide. It
is not strictly monotheistic, thus our Yezidis brethren have suffered
terribly under fanatical Muslims. In line with its belief in people of
the Book, Islam does not recognize Yezidism as a religion. Moreover,
the negative view of Muslims with regard to the Angel Peacock–who in
the religion of the Yezidis is second only to God–has been the cause
of conflict between Muslims and Yezidis for a thousand years or more.

Many Kurdish Jews and Christians have lived (and many Christians
still do live) in Kurdish areas.

Historically, there have been Christian converts among Kurds since
the 5th century. Nonetheless, today most insist that their ethnic
identity is "Christian," not Kurdish. Pockets of Assyrian, Nestorian
(Jacobite Syrian-Orthodox, Armenian, and very few Protestant Christians
still live in the Kurdish areas today.

By the passage of time, Kurdistan has been exposed to a range of
political, socio-religious and geographical adjustments. But there is
one distinctive verity that most Kurds have in common. And that is
the principle of having practiced Zoroastrianism before the spread
of Islam in the 7th century CE, which is believed to be one of the
oldest religions in the world. Hence, our pre-Islamic religion must
be Zoroastrianism. It is easier for Kurds, the majority of whom are
Muslim, to accept the belief that their pre-Islamic religion was
Zoroastrianism rather than any other religious conviction.

The Islam religion started with Mohammad in the 7th century, in Saudi
Arabia of today. Mohammad included in Islam the idea of jihad (holy
war) to spread Islam by the use of force. Islam was spread rapidly
to all the Arab nations of North Africa and the Middle East.

Having fallen in to the hands of the Arab nations, Islam turned
into an apparatus of Arab nationalism and xenophobia. As lucid,
many Arab extremists are critical of Western influence and seek a
return to the authentic roots of their own traditions. Others – and
extremely small minority – are radical Islamic fundamentalists who
have stepped over the line from extremist rhetoric into the world of
political violence. What is an undeniable truth is that most Muslim
Arabs share an intense hatred of Western nations in general, and the
United States in particular. This hatred is fueled by blind religious
zeal, a fundamentalist interpretation of Islam that is not accepted
by the vast majority of the Muslim world, and the belief that the US
and Americans prevent the emergence of pure and true Islamic society
in many parts of the world. Their primary goals are to force the US
to end its involvement in the Middle East and in all other Arab and
Muslim nations, abandon its support of Israel, and stop its support
of Arab nations they perceive as "corrupt." This is exactly in total
contradiction with Kurdish civilization, philosophy and religion.

Meanwhile, many of us "hold our Islam lightly," meaning that we are
not so vehement about Islam and do not identify as closely with it as
the Arabs do. This is perhaps due to several factors: one being, many
of us still feel some connection with the ancient Zoroastrian faith,
and feel it as an original Kurdish spirituality that far predates
the seventh century AD arrival of Muhammad.

Being a member of the Indo-European family of languages, we are
totally distinct from the Arabs, Turks, and Persians (Iranians)
of their region.

The name "Kurd" was a generic term used to denote nomads and
non-Arabs in particular. In Kurdish, the name "Kurd" means "warrior"
or "ferocious fighter." We are the modern descendents of the Medes,
who are mentioned in the Bible. The Kurds are the descendants of
the Medes, who helped Persia defeat Babylon. The Kurdish belief
that they are the descendants of the biblical Medes reflects this
rich background. Basing this claim on geographical, linguistic and
cultural factors, this claim is ascribed more.

History well lets slip the facts that "the earliest known evidence of
a unified and distinct culture (and possibly, ethnicity) by people
inhabiting the Kurdish mountains dates back to the Halaf culture
of 8,000 – 7,400 years ago. This was followed by the spread of the
Ubaidian culture, which was a foreign introduction from Mesopotamia. In
the 8th century we were conquered by the Arabs, who introduce Islam. We
were also subdued by the Mongols in the 11th century and later by the
Ottoman Turks, under whose rule they remained until the collapse of
the Ottoman Empire following World War I".

Other than through intermarriage over the centuries, we are
not ethnically and linguistically close or related to Arabs or
Turks. Arabs, who form the majority in Syria and Iraq, came during
the 7th century, the period of Islamic expansion, from the Saudi
Arabian Peninsula.

Arabic language in South Kurdistan

Even though Arabic is a sacred religion language to Muslims around the
world, Ninety percent of the world’s Muslims do not speak Arabic as
their native language Arabic and Islam are complementary and mutually
reinforcing. Arabization and Islamization are inseparable parts of a
single cultural ideal that now pervades the Arab world. Every Arab
government, regardless of its political or social character, uses
the symbolic power of the Arab language in its drive toward national
modernization, authentication, and uniformization. All of them see
the Arabization of society, particularly the educational system, as
crucial to their mission. This leads, however, to an unexpected irony:
because Arabs draw so close a connection between classical Arabic and
the faith of Islam, Arabization invariably leads to identification
with the (supranational) Islamic religious tradition.

Even the most secular Arab nationalist (such as the Ba`thist variants
in Syria and Iraq) must appeal to Islamic symbolism to bolster
sagging legitimacy and to mobilize the masses (as Saddam Hussein
did in his wars against Iran and the U.S.-led coalition). Hence,
Arab nationalism has, however inadvertently, contributed to the rise
of Islamism. Indeed, today’s Islamist surge is the natural, perhaps
inevitable consequence of the Arab nationalist policies of thirty
years ago.

We must enhance our cultural and linguistic national personality;
but no, we must not allow it to deprive us of the power of universal
scientific knowledge. It is only extremist Islamists and extremists
who are able to escape such wavering and adopt firm, unequivocal
stances for or against Arabization/Islamization.

We are in need of implementing a foreign language curriculum that can
further improve intellectual skills, helps our students understand
the customs, culture and literature of other societies, and allows
them to better trace their roots. Knowledge of a foreign language
contributes to international understanding of issues and greatly
increases career opportunities for our Kurdish scholars. At present,
proficiency in foreign languages is much in demand in government,
business, industry and research. And this is an indispensable fact
having been adopted by the nations of the world.

An estimated 300-400 million people speak English as their first
language. One recent estimate is that 1.9 billion people, nearly a
third of the world’s population, have a basic proficiency in English.

English is the dominant international language in communications,
science, business, aviation, entertainment, diplomacy and the
Internet. It has been one of the official languages of the United
Nations since its founding in 1945.

Another key language is French. French is spoken by 71 million
people in France and other 24 countries which include Canada
and Belgium. French is also the official language of a number of
International organizations, among which EU, NATO and UN.

There is no incentive for Kurds to totally not eradicate Arabic
language, culture and legacy in South Kurdistan and reinstate it with
a modern and internationally recognized democratic foundation.

Some facts about the Arabization policy in South Kurdistan

Attempts to Arabize instructions in Kurdistan were one of the primary
goals of previous dictator regime. The educational system of South
Kurdistan has gone under qualitative and quantitative changes.

The Education system in Kurdistan, prior to 1991, was one of the
most backward in the region. The Higher Education, especially the
scientific and technological institutions

The majority of Kurdistan institutions of higher education were burnt,
looted, or destroyed.

Kurdistan’s educational system was the target of Iraqi military action,
because education is the backbone of any society. Without an efficient
education system, no society can function. Schools and universities
were bombed and destroyed.

The previous Iraq’s school curriculum was a Baathist -crafted
curriculum In a callous and murderous policy termed "Baathification",
thousands of Kurdish academics, scientists and prominent were executed.

Iraq strategy against Kurdistan went beyond "strictly military
targets". The aim was the complete destruction of the Kurdistan
society and its knowledge-based resources.

In the wake of US liberation of Iraq, Kurdistan’s educational systems
are expected to match with the finest in the Middle East .

After the ‘Gulf War’, 95 per cent of all Kurdistan school age children
are attending school. Attendance at school has gone high in Kurdistan
as primary education is being compulsory.

There are successful government programs under way aimed at eradicating
illiteracy among Kurdish men and women.

Old Gyumri, Old Friend

OLD GYUMRI, OLD FRIEND
~ By Richard Foss ~

LA City Beat, CA
09-14-06

Glendale spot offers Armenian specialties in a friendly atmosphere

Photo by Richard Foss

Unimaginably tender: Oxtail stew has tomatoes, peppers, and a hint
of seasoning

"For an exotic ethnic capital, this looks a lot like Glendale,"
I remarked to my companions as I drove down San Fernando Road. As
indeed it should; the population of Glendale is more than 40 percent
Armenian, but, though signs in angular script are everywhere, the
buildings look like California strip malls. (Not that I could tell
you what traditional Armenian architecture looks like, but I’m pretty
sure that pastel stucco walls and glass doors aren’t it.)

We were on our way to Old Gyumri, a restaurant I’d last enjoyed
about 10 years ago. When my friends and I arrived this time, I was
pleased that the place looked exactly the same, even to the faded sign
announcing "Fast Food Takeout." There was irony in this, because the
service on that first visit was fast only by the standards of the
former Soviet bloc.

This time the service was actually both fast and polite, and we were
handed menus and served water by a waiter who offered to explain any
unfamiliar dishes.

Since Armenian food draws on traditional styles from the Middle East
and Eastern Europe, we were familiar with many items, but we were
most interested in those ones unique to Armenia. Our server seemed
surprised and first suggested chicken kebabs, but readily helped us
when he realized we really wanted the more unusual dishes.

Our meal started with "Turshu," a huge plate of pickled cabbage,
carrots, celery, garlic, and peppers ($4.99). These were lightly
spicy and sour, a terrific pick-me-up for a hot day and pleasant
even on the relatively cool evening of our visit. The hot pepper was
as zingy as any pickled jalapeño I’ve had at a Mexican restaurant,
the celery and cucumber a refreshing contrast. We also ordered a
dip called Ikra ($3.99), a mix of cooked eggplant, tomato, and red
bell pepper that was a lightly sweet and tangy contrast to the sour
pickles. It came with both a thin flatbread of the type usually seen
in Persian restaurants and a thick, crusty white bread, and we were
very happy with the balance of flavors.

We continued with a Russian salad called Stalichni ($4.99) and an
eggroll-like starter called a blinchik ($1.50). The blinchik was
decent but ordinary – mildly spiced beef wrapped in thin bread,
then fried. The salad was more interesting, a mixture of chopped
vegetables, minced pork, mayonnaise, and sour cream, enlivened with
liberal amounts of dill. Despite liking it very much, we packed more
than half of the salad and pickles to take home – the portions were
big and we had obviously over-ordered, and we needed to save room
for our main courses.

My companions paired the starters with an Armenian yogurt drink and
a tarragon-lemonade soda, while I tried a glass of a red wine called
Khachkar. It was a decent light red, not about to make the folks
in Napa look over their shoulders, but well balanced and suited to
the meal.

We continued with oxtail stew ($7.99), barbecued lamb heart and
lung ($7.99), and barbecued sturgeon ($13.99). This was a study
in contrasting textures, starting with the oxtail, which had an
intense beefy flavor and soft, almost gelatinous feel. This may not
sound appetizing, but it really was – it was the most tender meat
imaginable, cooked with tomatoes, peppers, and a hint of seasoning
to near-melting consistency.

The lamb heart and lung was another matter, the heart intensely
flavored and slightly chewy, the lung mild, but – well, there’s no
other word for it but squishy.

I’ve enjoyed lamb offal in a good haggis (and, yes, there is such
a thing), but this preparation emphasized textures that I regard as
a drawback. One of my companions grew up on a farm in Pennsylvania
where organ meats are a delicacy, and he liked it just fine, but I
didn’t care for it much.

The sturgeon suited everyone’s tastes much better, three magnificently
grilled filets of lightly seasoned fish with pomegranate syrup on
the side for dipping.

It was the last item to arrive and ended our dinner on a high note. We
ate every speck of it.

We asked about dessert and were told that the restaurant doesn’t serve
it – Armenians go from their dinners to cafes where champagne and
fruit are served, and the restaurateur was happy to recommend one if
we wished. We had dined so well that nothing else was needed, and we
left with a new appreciation for the exotic cuisine of a deceptively
ordinary-looking neighborhood.

Old Gyumri, 4441 San Fernando Rd., Glendale, (818) 550-0448. Open
daily, 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Wheelchair access good; parking lot. Beer and
wine; some vegetarian items.

–Boundary_(ID_I91AIkU/4PsTeRYRrFNnAw)–