A guide to Armenia, the captivating mountainous country to visit before the cr

Although compact, Armenia packs an extraordinary amount in. Visitors can spend the morning wandering Yerevan’s café-lined streets and by afternoon, be outside of the city hiking a basalt gorge, elbow-deep in dough at an underground bakery, or riding horseback through a meadow with snow-capped peaks rising in the distance.

While Yerevan, one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, has plenty to offer visitors with its UNESCO-listed monasteries and riverside tavernas, the best of Armenia lies outside the capital. The best way to see it is to hire a car and set your own pace, although day trips are easy enough to organise if time is tight. Whether you have a long weekend or a week to explore, these are the places that shouldn’t be missed.

Yerevan

Most trips start here. Yerevan’s nicknamed the Pink City, after the rosy volcanic tuff used across much of its architecture, and it’s walkable in a way a lot of capitals aren’t – museums, cafés and vibrant boulevards are all fairly close together. Mövenpick Yerevan is a solid base, about 20 minutes from Zvartnots International Airport and within walking distance of most of the main sights, with comfortable rooms, a decent breakfast spread and a daily chocolate hour that’s a genuinely nice touch after a long flight.

In Yerevan, all roads lead to Republic Square. Seen from above, the square is said to resemble the sun, its streets fanning out like rays. Its Singing Fountains have been running since the 1970s, well before choreographed water shows became common elsewhere in the region. There’s something to be said for that longevity – here, it feels part of the city’s fabric, not just a tourist add-on. Kids run between the jets, the music carries across the square, and, come evening, benches fill with people simply enjoying the cool evening air.

From there, walk through the centre towards the Cascade Complex – past juice stalls selling cups of fresh pomegranate and apricot, fruit piled high on every corner, and cafes spilling onto the pavement. The Cascade itself is hard to miss: 572 limestone steps rising through terraces, fountains and contemporary sculptures (the Cafesjian Sculpture Garden sits at its base, worth a slow look on the way up). If the climb seems a little ambitious, an escalator inside the complex takes visitors almost to the top. Visit at sunset, when the terraces afford panoramic views over the city, with Mount Ararat on the horizon on a clear evening.

Make time to visit the Armenian Genocide Memorial and Museum. Located on Tsitsernakaberd Hill overlooking the capital, the memorial is one of the country’s most important places of remembrance, honouring the victims of the Armenian Genocide and preserving the memory of those who lost their lives. A tree-lined avenue, planted by visiting heads of state over the decades, leads to an eternal flame above the city. The museum below shares personal stories, photographs, testimonies and historical artefacts that help explain one of the defining chapters of Armenia’s history.

As for the evenings – Yerevan runs on live music. Most days, bands play in restaurants across the city well past midnight. Tavern Riverside is one of the better-known spots, right on the Hrazdan River. The friendly staff are equipped with recommendations from the expansive menu, and the night usually wraps with a fire show, which sounds like a gimmick but somehow isn’t here. It gets busy, so book a day ahead if you want a table by the water. For something more relaxed, Zepyur is a lovely alternative, serving generous platters of grilled meat, herbs, seasonal vegetables and warm lavash as live musicians play throughout the night.

Garni, Geghard and the Symphony of Stones

About 40 minutes east, the dense city gives way to mountain roads and river gorges. Roadside stalls stacked with apricots and homemade jam are the first sign you’ve left Yerevan behind.

Garni Temple is the country’s only surviving Greco-Roman temple, set above the Azat Gorge with views that go well past the immediate mountains. Built in the first century AD, its imposing grey stone columns and broad staircase have watched over the gorge for almost 2,000 years. A short walk from the entrance leads to the temple, where local vendors sell everything from mountain honey to freshly baked pastries.

Just ten minutes away lies one of the country’s most extraordinary natural wonders: the Symphony of Stones. Towering hexagonal basalt columns, some reaching 50 metres high, were formed by volcanic activity millions of years ago and resemble the pipes of a giant organ. Deep within Garni Gorge, the formations seem almost too symmetrical to be natural. A trail follows the Azat River beneath the cliffs, while a small train offers an easier ride back to the top. Even in early summer, the rush of the river and birdsong echo through the gorge, creating a landscape that feels worlds away from the Gulf.

Nearby, Geghard Monastery is carved directly into the mountainside. The UNESCO World Heritage Site dates back to the fourth century, and flickers with candlelight against ancient stone walls while worshippers quietly move between chapels. According to tradition, the monastery once housed the Holy Lance believed to have pierced Jesus Christ’s side during the Crucifixion.

Before leaving, stop at family-run restaurant 7 Qar to try your hand at baking lavash, Armenia’s flatbread, recognised by UNESCO as part of the country’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. Using a traditional underground tonir oven, you’ll quickly discover that rolling the dough is the easy part; stretching across the oven to press it onto the scorching-hot inner wall takes rather more practice. Local bakers make it look effortless. Be sure to eat while it’s still warm, with cheese and fresh herbs on the side.

Lake Sevan and Dilijan

Lake Sevan is one of the largest high-altitude freshwater lakes in Eurasia, sitting almost 1,900 metres above sea level with mountains ringing it on every side. Fishing boats drift out on the water, chugging between the villages lining the shore. On a still morning, the breeze is the only thing you can hear.

North of Sevan, the road climbs towards Dilijan and the landscape flips almost the second you clear the mountain tunnel – dry hills become dense forest, the road vanishes under trees. The contrast is so striking, it feels as though you’ve crossed into another country. Dilijan gets called the “Switzerland of Armenia” often enough that it’s become a bit of a cliché, but on sight of timber balconies suspended over the Old Town’s cobbled streets, it’s hard not to make the comparison. The town has a quiet, unhurried feel, with small workshops selling ceramics, woodwork and local honey.

The Lori region, on horseback

Further north still, the road winds into the Lori region, where the valleys deepen and the traffic thins to nothing. Concept Hotel by COAF, which sits above the Debed Canyon here, is a good base for exploring, with its big windows offering uninterrupted views across the valley. At sunrise the light spills across the balcony in a way that makes it hard to leave.

Exploring the Lori region on horseback is perhaps the best way to experience Armenia’s vast and varied landscapes. Wildflower-filled meadows stretch towards snow-capped peaks, soundtracked by nothing but the sound of birdsong and the steady rhythm of hooves. It’s one of the quietest corners of the country, and one that calls for life at a slower pace.

Those who prefer things a little more high-octave can opt for guided ATV tours in the surrounding hills, following rugged tracks to viewpoints that would otherwise take hours to reach on foot. Whether on horseback or behind the wheel of an ATV, this the place to experience Armenia’s vast open valleys and mountain peaks away from the crowds of the city.

Gyumri, Echmiadzin and Zvartnots

Armenia’s second-largest city, Gyumri, has a character entirely its own. Known for its thriving arts scene and black volcanic stone architecture, it offers a striking contrast to the capital. Wandering through its historic streets reveals beautifully preserved 19th-century buildings, independent galleries and cafes filled with locals rather than tour groups.

Back towards Yerevan, Echmiadzin is widely regarded as the spiritual centre of the Armenian Apostolic Church and remains one of the country’s most significant pilgrimage sites. Nearby, the haunting ruins of Zvartnots Cathedral stand against a backdrop of Mount Ararat, their remaining columns hinting at the grandeur of what was once one of Armenia’s architectural masterpieces. Together with Echmiadzin, the UNESCO World Heritage Site serves as a powerful reminder of the country’s history.

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