However, even the most devout pilgrim can suffer monastery fatigue – Khor Virap, Geghad, Sevanavank – all similar stone conical roofs against the magnificent Caucasus mountains. Then we arrived in Garni. One of the only pagan temples, it stands like an improbable small version Parthenon in a remote corner of Armenia, over one thousand, five hundred miles from Athens. Built in 77 AD during the reign of Tiridates I, its continued existence is a mystery. When the country adopted Christianity, all pagan temples were razed to the ground and churches erected on their sites.
Even odder is the fact, that after the 1679 earthquake toppled the temple, it was the famously atheistic Soviet government that meticulously restored it in 1975. Most probably, the Russians, who have always prized the classical form, were entranced by its classic geometrically perfect colonnade on a platform of double-height stairs and topped with triangular pediments.
Garni Temple today is a key destination for tourists, but also Armenian neo-pagans who celebrate the birth of Vahagn, the God of fire. We were there during Nowruz, the Persian new year. Traditionally, Iranians also travel to Garni to celebrate this, as Nowruz is a 3000 year old Zoroastrian (the religion of Persia before Islam) custom. This year, we did not encounter any. What struck me was the palpable sadness of the locals. ‘It is not the same without them’ was the wistful remark from so many. Garni temple, which has witnessed centuries of civilisations and itself been resurrected, knows that this time too will pass.
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Disclaimer: This article was contributed and translated into English by Emil Lazarian. While we strive for quality, the views and accuracy of the content remain the responsibility of the contributor. Please verify all facts independently before reposting or citing.
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