I had longed to climb a mountain to smell the pine trees. We took the ascending trail…The day shone like a diamond in the rough. As we climbed, the soul became purer. I was again feeling how good for the soul pure air is, the easy breathing, scanning the great expanse to the horizon. – Zorba the Greek, Nikos Kazantzakis.
“Come and see a natural sight,” said guide Garush, leading us to the Jermuk geyser. I was part of a summer “Pilgrimage to Armenia” with Father Abraham Malkhasyan, President Aram Ciamician organizer in coordination with the Fund for Armenian Relief (FAR ), of the Holy Martyrs Church, Bayside, New York before the Covid-19 virus pandemic. Garush, a brilliant native born Armenian father of a young son, spoke perfect English. Armenia is a land trilingual in Armenian/Russian/ English.
The Geyser of Jermuk was impressive, clear of excessive commercialism. The cascading waterfall, pure air, surrounded by mountains, cliffs, and forests is what Kazantzakis described as “good for the soul”. Jermuk is one of the main spas and resort towns in Armenia. Chess tournaments are held, creating the city as a major chess center. It is in the mountains of Vayots Dzor. Jermuk’s forests, hot springs and mineral water are known in Armenia. Jermuk means geyser in Armenian. The underground geyser of Jermuk is used both for drinking and taking baths. It cures various diseases and neurological disorders.
The Jermuk geyser or waterfall is 72 meters high. It empties into the Arpa river. The waterfall is known as “Mermaid’s hair”. The legend is that a princess loved a shepherd’s son. Her father, a rich nobleman, tried to break the romance. He cursed her if she continued her romance. What was the curse? She would become a mermaid and stay in the water. The curse was fulfilled. The princess became a mermaid. Her hair became the “waterfall of Jermuk”.2
I marvel at this ancient people, the first to adopt Christianity, who still survive 1700 years later. In my opinion, they remain in 2020 the only true early Christians who exist since the 300’s A. D. Climbing up the cliff of Jermuk’s geyser, he/she experiences “feeling how good for the soul pure air is, the easy breathing, scanning the great expanse to the horizon.”
References:
1.Thanasis Maskalesis. “Terrestrial Gospel of Nikos Kazantzakis”. Zorba Press, Ithaca, N.Y. pp. 66-67.
