Jerusalem weekend full of wonders

Edmonton Journal (Alberta)
October 12, 2005 Wednesday
Final Edition

Jerusalem weekend full of wonders: After just two days in this holy
city you’ll know why there isn’t a better place to pray for peace

by Bonnie Stern, For National Post; CanWest News Service

JERUSALEM

JERUSALEM – Holy ground to three world religions — Judaism,
Christianity and Islam — Jerusalem has been fought over for more
than 3,000 years. Yet to visitors the city seems peaceful and
welcoming.

Day 1

MORNING: Start with an Israeli breakfast, usually included in your
hotel rate. You will be amazed at the huge buffet of salads —
Israelis eat salads all day — fresh fruits, cheese, smoked fish,
omelettes, chocolate croissants and more.

Your first goal is to explore the walled Old City. It is divided into
four quarters: the Armenian Quarter, Muslim Quarter, Jewish Quarter
and Christian Quarter. For an overview of the history of the city,
start at the Jaffa Gate and the Tower of David History of Jerusalem
Museum (towerofdavid.org.il/eng) just inside the gates.

Then continue into the Armenian Quarter and visit the Cathedral of
St. James. Stand in the peaceful cobblestoned courtyard where the
disciple James was stoned and where James the Apostle was beheaded.
And don’t miss the lovely Armenian Art Centre where there are
striking hand-painted tiles and pottery for sale.

For a breathtaking view, head to the Petra Hostel in the Old City. Go
up the rickety stairs to the front desk and pay about $1.25 to go to
the roof. Spread before you is the Tower of David Museum, the
Armenian Quarter, the Mount of Olives, the gold-domed Mosque that
dominates the Jerusalem skyline and the two grey domes of the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre.

Across the street from the hostel is where the ancient souk begins.
Enter and get ready for sensory overload. When you see a lot of
pilgrim religious artifacts for sale you will know you are close to
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where Jesus was entombed.

AFTERNOON: By now you should be getting hungry. Abu Shukri, a tiny
aluminum-fronted food stall in the exotic Muslim quarter is said to
have the most delicious hummus and falafel on the planet. Ask anyone
for directions. If it is packed (there are only a few seats, but the
turnover is fast), go to Lina’s across the street. There are spirited
debates over whose falafel is the best.

Continue on to the Cardo, the original shopping mall in the Jewish
Quarter. The ancient long underground street is lined on both sides
with stores. Try Mira for beautiful handcrafted jewellery and Bar On
and Chaya for handwoven table linens and prayer shawls.

A must-see in the Jewish Quarter is the Western Wall, the holiest
place for Jews. Men and women visit the Wall in separate areas and
tourists can watch or join in. Many people push a tiny written prayer
or supplication between the stones in the Wall, as this is considered
the closest place to God.

Nearby — you’ll recognize it because it is manned by soldiers — is
the entrance to the Temple Mount and the Dome of the Rock. If it is
open, go to the Temple Mount first because visiting hours are
limited. This holy Muslim site is where Muhammad ascended to heaven.
Although only Muslims can enter the mosques, the Temple Mount area
can be visited by tourists.

Before leaving the Old City, do not miss the Southern Wall
excavations. Enter though the Davidson’s Visitors Centre and explore
2,000 years of history above and below ground.

You will end up just inside the Dung Gate where taxis are available
to take you to the garden of the elegant American Colony Hotel, the
haunt of foreign journalists and celebrities. Or head for the
stunning terrace of The King David Hotel. Have a celebratory
pre-dinner drink because if you have done all this sightseeing — or
even some of it — you deserve to celebrate.

EVENING: Enjoy a relaxing dinner at Olive and Fish (2 Jabotinsky
St.), where they offer a large assortment of appetizer salads and
Israeli fish and meat specialties.

Day 2

MORNING: Start the day at one of the city’s great coffeehouses. Try
the Hillel Cafe or Aroma Cafe with their yogurt, honey and granola
specialties and delicious breakfast breads.

Take a taxi to the Israel Museum (it is closed Tuesdays,
imjorg.il/eng). Don’t miss the Dead Sea Scrolls housed separately in
the Shrine of the Book, a building shaped like the lid of the clay
jars in which the scrolls were found. The main building contains the
archeology of Israel, an amazing collection of Judaica and modern
Israeli art.

AFTERNOON: Have lunch in the museum restaurant in the lower level of
the main complex. They serve a lovely salad buffet, soup and a wide
selection of sandwiches at reasonable prices. After lunch, walk over
to the nearby Knesset, the parliamentary buildings, to see the
gigantic bronze menorah with bas-reliefs showing events in Jewish
history.

Next, take a taxi to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Memorial (vashem.org),
with the newly designed museum by Canadian-Israeli architect Moshe
Safdie. As sombre as it might be, Yad Vashem gives visitors insight
into the seminal event in recent Jewish history.

For a lighter experience, join the locals, who love to buy their
fruits and vegetables in Mahane Yehuda, an open-air market on Agripas
Street. Be sure to try the world-famous chocolate rugalahs at
Marzipan bakery.

Take a taxi to the pedestrian mall on Ben Yehuda Street to finish
your shopping. For more handcrafted pottery and jewellery go through
Zion Square to Yoel Salomon Street. Have coffee or a snack in the
charming literary coffeehouse, ‘Tmol-Shilshom.

EVENING: For your send-off dinner, try Arcadia (10 Agripas St.), a
hidden gem that has received raves from Israeli and international
restaurant reviewers. After dinner, investigate Jerusalem’s outdoor
coffee cafe culture and find out why Starbucks couldn’t make inroads
here.

After just two days in Jerusalem you’ll know why there isn’t a better
place to pray for peace.

IF YOU GO

Where to stay:

– King David Hotel: This is Jerusalem’s finest luxury hotel. It is
located within walking distance of the Old City. Double rooms start
at $284 US (danhotels.com).

– Inbal: A very modern, elegant hotel. Double rooms start at $220 US
(inbal-hotel.co.il).

– Grand Court Hotel: A new hotel, it has large modern rooms and the
price is excellent — though the location is off the beaten track.
Double rooms start at $100 US ().

– Shabbat: If you have limited time in Jerusalem do not plan your
visit for Friday or Saturday as restaurants, shops and tourist sites
close early on Friday. Many do not reopen until after sundown on
Saturday night. Non-kosher restaurants and hotel restaurants are
open, however, and some tourist sites are open on Saturday.

www.grandcourt.co.il

BAKU: Azerbaijan’s patience over Karabakh running out, Aliyev says

Azerbaijani TV Channel One,
Oct 14 2005

Azerbaijan’s patience over Karabakh running out, president says

Azerbaijan’s patience in the peace talks on Nagornyy Karabakh is
running out, Azerbaijani President Ilham Aliyev has said.

Addressing the forum of the youth in the Azerbaijani capital on 14
October, Aliyev said: “I have said and I am saying again. Since the
talks and opportunities have not exhausted, we are trying to continue
the peace talks. However, our patience has limits and is not endless.
For how long can we continue these talks? For how long will this
situation remain unchanged? This is our right.

“The whole international community recognizes, supports and expresses
a clear attitude towards Azerbaijan’s territorial integrity. However,
the issue has not been resolved due to various reasons. I would not
like to talk much about this.

“I am totally convinced that given our wish to resolve the
Armenian-Azerbaijani Nagornyy Karabakh conflict fairly – within
Azerbaijan’s territorial integrity – along with the talks, one should
pay major attention to a military build-up.”

Aliyev also spoke about Azerbaijan’s achievements in all spheres.

A tragedy, but not an accident

San Francisco Chronicle, CA
Oct 15 2005

A tragedy, but not an accident
C.W. Nevius

We are calling this an accident. But it wasn’t.

What happened last Sunday night was that Kevin McGuinness, who police
say was driving drunk again, blasted through intersections in Pacific
Heights, fled a hit and run, ran a stop sign and slammed into Yellow
Cab No. 701, according to police.

McGuinness’ four-door 2001 pickup crumpled the car, killing a
passenger, 21-year-old Tyler Brown, and the driver, 76-year-old Zareh
Soghikian.

Today, McGuinness is in jail, facing second-degree murder charges. He
has three previous DUI convictions. This could be his fourth. My
guess is he feels terrible about what happened.

At least now he does.

But what is hard to understand is how two such remarkable people were
put in that truck’s trajectory.

“This was two really good, young guys,” says Ruach Graffis, a member
of the executive board of the United Taxicab Workers of San
Francisco. “One was 21, and one was 76.”

Emily Wren, a Duke University student who met Brown there when they
were freshmen, says of McGuinness: “That man wasn’t just hurting one
person or his family. He was taking the life of someone who honestly
could have changed part of the world. And I know he would have.”

The funeral services are today. Brown’s friends and family will
gather back in Rhode Island, while Soghikian’s service will be in
Oakland at the Armenian Apostolic Church. At midnight last night, the
night cabbies were expected to gather at the crash site to share a
few stories about Soghikian. Some of them are remarkable.

His father was chief medical officer for the Egyptian Army, one of
his brothers is a doctor, and the other is an engineer/architect. The
6-foot-4-inch-tall cabbie ran a travel business and was also, his
sister-in-law Collen Soghikian says, “an excellent basketball
player” in his youth.

Meanwhile, on the East Coast, Wren may tell the volleyball story.

She and Brown were among five Duke students from “Engineers Without
Borders” who traveled to Sumatra last summer to help the village of
Lamnga rebuild its shrimp hatcheries after the devastation of the
Indonesian tsunami. (See their Web site at ewb.pratt.Duke.edu.) That
sounds like Brown, who at Duke lived at Wayne Manor, a “selective
living” house that emphasizes “community service.”

But it was also right in character for Brown to be among the
6-foot-tall Americans who ended up challenging a group of middle
school boys, none of whom was more than 5 feet tall, to a volleyball
match.

“And our team pretty much got its asses kicked,” Wren says.

Which Brown, of course, found hugely amusing.

“He had an incredible laugh,” says Jason Loughnane, who calls Brown
his best friend. “From anywhere in our apartment you could tell that
Tyler was watching something funny online because he would just laugh
so loudly by himself in his room.”

Brown ended up in Soghikian’s cab because he was checking out
graduate schools at Stanford and Cal. His double major, biomedical
and mechanical engineering, was ridiculously difficult, but Wren says
he had a plan. He wanted to “be a professor like his parents. But
before he did that, he was going to join the Peace Corps.”

“But more than that,” Loughnane said by e-mail, “he couldn’t wait to
be a dad. We had a lot of fun times chasing girls in college, but he
talked about how much he wanted a son and how I would be Uncle Jay to
his kids when we met up in 20 years to watch Duke basketball games
together.”

That sounds like something Soghikian would have appreciated.

“He was,” says Mark Gruberg, executive board member of the cabbies’
union, “gentlemanly and genial, graceful and gracious and deeply
caring.”

Mort Weinstein, a cabdriver who rode to work with Soghikian three
nights a week, says Soghikian charged him $5 for the ride to work
each night, “But it didn’t go in his pocket, ever.” It seems he met
an Armenian family one night in his cab who had lost everything in an
earthquake. He took their name and address and, Weinstein says,
“twice a year he would send the money to them.”

He could, however, be a little strict.

“Zareh holds the record,” Weinstein says. “One New Year’s Eve he
kicked seven passengers out of his cab for bad behavior. They didn’t
get the privilege of riding his cab.”

Tyler Brown got the privilege. And if they had to go, they could have
done worse than to be with each other. Two good guys, kindred souls,
whose paths somehow crossed a careening pickup one night in San
Francisco.

“I thank God that Mike (Brown’s friend Michael Giedgowd who was in
the cab) is going to be all right,” Loughnane says. “But I just keep
hoping that Ty will come home with him. It’s going to take a lifetime
to get through this.”

Officially we will call this a tragic accident. But when a guy like
McGuinness does this over and over, it isn’t an accident, it’s a
pattern.

But tragic? Yeah, I’d go along with that.

US agency calls on Turkey to drop charges against Pamuk

Kathimerini, Greece
Oct 15 2005

US agency calls on Turkey to drop charges against Pamuk

WASHINGTON (AP) – A US government human rights group is calling on
Turkey to drop charges against Orhan Pamuk, a writer indicted for
speaking openly on the Armenian question. The appeal was made by
commissioners of the US Helsinki Commission, which monitors rights
issues, mostly in Europe. They sent a letter to Turkish Prime
Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan, urging him to authorize the removal of
charges against Pamuk. `A stable democracy cannot blossom until the
government ends the practice of stifling free speech and removes the
clouds of deception and censorship from a true telling of history,’
said Commission Co-Chairman Rep. Christopher Smith.

BAKU: FM Mammadyarov visits Egypt

AzerTag, Azerbaijan
Oct 15 2005

FOREIGN MINISTER ELMAR MAMMADYAROV VISITS EGYPT
[October 16, 2005, 23:22:04]

Baku, 16 October (AzerTAj). Paying an official visit to Egypt Foreign
Minister of Azerbaijan Elmar Mammadyarov met here with his
counterpart Ahmad Abu Al-Jeit on October 15. The parties discussed
ways of enhancing Azerbaijan-Egypt cooperation in political and
economic fields as well as within international organizations, and
exchanged views on the situation in the Middle East and international
security issues.

The Egyptian Minister said touching on the Armenia-Azerbaijan
conflict over Nagorno-Karabakh, he supported the efforts by the OSCE
Minsk group, as well as the talks between the leaders and foreign
ministers of the conflicting states aiming at peaceful settlement of
the problem. He expressed hope it would be settled soon in the
framework of territorial integrity of Azerbaijan. Both Ministers
pointed out that the economic relations between Azerbaijan and Egypt
were not on a due level and stressed the importance of expanding
trade and economic cooperation between the two countries. They
welcomed the idea of opening the flight Baku – Sharm El Sheik- Cairo
that, according to them, would increase the tourist flows between the
countries, and intensify direct contacts among businessmen.

Informing his Egyptian colleague on the implementation of the
large-scale projects in Azerbaijan including the construction of the
Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan oil and Baku-Tbilisi-Erzurum gas pipelines,
Baku-Tbilisi-Kars railway as well as TRACECA, Foreign Minister Elmar
Mammadyarov expressed his wish that Egypt joined the latter in an
observer capacity.

Following the meeting, the two Ministers gave a press conference.

On the same day, Foreign Minister Elmar Mammadyarov met with Chairman
of the National Assembly of Egypt Ahmad Fathi Surur, and made a
speech at the Egyptian Foreign Ministry’s Foreign Affairs Council.

From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress

TEHRAN: Religious minorities to stage demo in front of Brit. Embassy

Tehran Times
Oct 17 2005

Religious minorities to stage demo in front of British Embassy

Tehran Times Political Desk

TEHRAN — Members of Iran’s religious minority communities will
gather in front of the British Embassy at 10:30 a.m. today to protest
against the way the International Atomic Energy Agency is dealing
with Iran’s nuclear program.

Zoroastrians and Armenian, Chaldean, and Assyrian Christians will be
taking part in the demonstration.

They plan to issue a statement in defense of Iran’s inalienable right
to possess nuclear technology meant for peaceful purposes and
condemning the IAEA and the EU trio’s stances toward Iran at the end
of the protest.

Shekhawat’s tour-de-force

Daily Pioneer, India
Oct 16 2005

Shekhawat’s tour-de-force

Vice-President Bhairon Singh Shekhawat is respected for many
qualities – canny politician, able administrator, mass leader,
legislative skills (having been MLA or MP almost uninterruptedly
since 1952).

But one thing that would not generally be attributed to him is the
ability to conduct international diplomacy. I was, therefore, struck
by his supreme confidence, linguistic agility and informal charm in
his interactions with politicians and bureaucrats alike during his
visit to three European countries earlier this month.

The Vice-President headed an official Indian delegation on a goodwill
mission to Romania, Belarus and Armenia between October 1 and 8,
perhaps the highest profile visit by an Indian leader since the
collapse of the Socialist Bloc and the Soviet Union in the early
1990s. I was privileged to have been among the four Rajya Sabha MPs
selected to accompany him. Unfortunately, I could not join him from
the start and missed the Romania leg. So, I flew to the Belarus
capital of Minsk and traveled with him for the rest of the journey.

What struck me about Mr Shekhawat’s style was its easy informality.
Far too often have I observed Indian leaders get frightfully pompous
and self-important when they interact with foreign dignitaries. For
example, while handing over the symbolic key to 60 Indian tractors
donated to Armenia, the Vice-President repeatedly emphasised the need
to ensure their ownership was not left made collective. “Unless
farmers have a sense of belonging to their land and farm implements,
they will never look after them.

These tractors will not be properly maintained and the purpose of
donating them would be lost,” he told the Armenian Agriculture
Minister who concurred with this view. On many such occasions,
including his meetings with the Presidents of Belarus and Armenia, Mr
Shekhawat departed from written texts to make incisive observations
about global realities and India’s perception of its role in the 21st
century world. I found it remarkable that a man who has only been
regarded as a regional leader from Rajasthan so far, has not stopped
learning while his sharp mind has internalised nuances of
international diplomacy. He was also not squeamish about talking in
Hindi as he could express himself best in his mother tongue. For some
reason, most Indian politicians insist on speaking in English with
dignitaries from non-English speaking nation even though those
leaders communicate in their national language.

The visit was also an eye-opener for me as so little is known about
Belarus and Armenia in India. The two countries are also real studies
in contrast that left me wondering how people as diverse as the two
ever coexisted as part of the same political union. Belarus, for
instance, is aggressively Russian in many ways, language and culture
included.

Besides, it is also firmly anti-West and fearful of the US
instigating an “Orange Revolution” on the lines of Georgia, Ukraine
and Kyrghyzstan. It’s President, George Lukashenko is regarded as a
tough, Soviet-era administrator, unsympathetic to the need for
political reform. On a visit to their Senate building, the upper
House Speaker bluntly told us that people in his country were opposed
to “disruptive” Opposition antics as a result of which they had
elected just one such candidate to the 64-member Senate! But Belarus
is prospering and its buoyant economy appears to be a guarantee
against the “disruptive” Opposition making any electoral headway in
the foreseeable future.

Armenia, on the other hand, is relatively poor and decidedly
non-Russian. I hardly spotted any signboard in the Russian script,
neither do major buildings in its picturesque capital city of Yerevan
sport a Soviet appearance unlike structures in Minsk. On a hill
overlooking Yerevan there used to be a gigantic statue of Stalin,
which has now been replaced with a huge stone structure representing
Mother Armenia.

Incidentally, Armenia is among the few countries in the world that
unambiguously supports the Indian position on Jammu and Kashmir.
Their logic is simple: Armenia is encircled by Muslim republics
Azerbaijan and Turkey, while Muslim-dominated regions of the Russian
Federation, like Ossetia, Ingushetia, Dagestan and Chechnya are also
among its neighbours. Armenians were subjected to one of the world’s
worst genocide by the Turks and Turkey retains its control over Mount
Ararat, worshipped by the Armenians as holy. It is on Mount Ararat
that Noah’s Arc is believed to have rested during the Biblical
floods.

Armenia has also been feuding with neighbour Azerbaijan for
legitimising its occupation of the Christian-majority region of
Nagorno-Karabakh, a claim the Azeris hotly dispute. Unwilling to
offend Islamic sentiment, India maintains an ambivalent position on
the Armenian occupation of Nagorno-Karabakh, which is good enough for
Armenia.

India says it does not want to lose leverage with Islamic rebels in
the region and the proactive albeit outgoing Indian Ambassador to
Armenia paid a hush-hush visit to Chechnya last year to plead with
Chechen terrorist chief Basayev (architect of the Beslan massacre of
350 schoolchildren) to restrain militant Chechens from joining the
Pak-sponsored jehad in Kashmir. This piece of information came as a
shock to me since I had always believed India never supped with
global terrorist chieftains. Basayev has probably killed as many
innocents as Osama bin Laden, apart from running a viciously violent
terror campaign against friendly Russia.

A rather fascinating facet of Armenia is its quaint, orthodox version
of Christianity. Armenians are proud of being the world’s first
Christian community and their Church predates all others, including
the Russian Orthodox whose teachings they consider dangerously
liberal.

Yet, the Armenian variant of Christianity is remarkably tolerant in
its approach to other faiths. During a visit to their equivalent of
the Vatican where the Armenian Pope (currently Karegin II) resides,
we were taken on a guided tour of the original church beneath which
lay an ancient pagan fire temple. We were told that Jesus Christ
appeared before priest Gregory in a dream in 301 AD and asked for a
temple to be built at that particular spot. It was only during
renovations as recently as 1958 that ruins of the fire temple were
discovered deep under the church, explaining the choice of the site.

The church authorities decided not only to restore the fire temple
despite its pagan origins but also proudly proclaim this fact to
visitors. Like every other religious order, the Armenian Church is
facing a severe shortage of priests. His Holiness Karegin II lamented
the steady exodus of Armenians from India who once numbered thousands
but have been reduced to a bare 100 now, making it difficult to tend
to rituals in the centuries-old Armenian churches in Kolkata and
Chennai. Shortage of hands is not confined to the religious order:
The Armenian diaspora at 6 million is more the double the country’s 3
million inhabitants today.

I found the Armenians to be a cheerful and jovial people, their women
are undoubtedly among the most beautiful in the world. The
conviviality of their President Robert Kocherian was, thus, very much
in keeping with their national character.

The President entered the imposing meeting room of his official
residence for talks with Vice-President Shekhawat and stumped
everybody by instantly demanding to be introduced to Mr KL Kochhar,
media adviser to the Vice-President. He proceeded to explain that
Kocherian in Armenian meant son of Kocher and so he wanted to
ascertain if there was an Armenian connection to the Indian
delegation. Since our Mr Kochhar had little resemblance to any
European, President Kocherian ended up disappointed!

From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress

Azerbaijani gov’t prepared a special cell in prison for Rasul Guliye

Regnum, Russia
Oct 15 2005

Azerbaijani authorities prepared a special cell in prison for Rasul
Guliyev

Azerbaijani Prosecutor General Zakir Garalov commenting on a comeback
of a presidential candidate, the Democratic Party leader Rasul
Guliyev living in exile now said: `The reforms in the penitentiary
system of Azerbaijan have continued successfully, and conditions in
prisons in the country have been brought into line with the European
standards. We have assigned a special cell in Bailovsky jail that
meets all the standards required.’

`We have searched for Guliyev for several years, and the decision of
the court will be executed. I declare resolutely, that the opposition
has embarked on political speculations claiming that Guliyev is
supported by the US government. None of the states support Guliyev,’
continued Garalov. He also added that Azerbaijan is an independent
state, and its law enforcement agencies fulfill their duties by
themselves.

By the way, Garalov reminded, that on October 10, 2000 Sabail
District Court put Guliyev on wanted list and issued a warrant on his
arrest. Commenting on the plans of the opposition to stage a
ceremonial welcome for Guliyev in the airport, the prosecutor noted,
`the airport is a strategic object that is guarded particularly.’

In his opinion, `Ali Kerimli and Isa Gambar prepared a trap for
Guliyev, but they would be trapped in it by themselves.’ According to
Garalov, leaders of the National Front Party and `Musavat’ want to
use the comeback of Guliyev to destabilize the political situation.
`There is a direct evident they have carried out an unsuccessful
election campaign,’ believes the prosecutor. However, he thinks, the
plans of the opposition would not be put into practice, because the
law enforcement agencies would continue to secure social and
political stability in the region, and the elections would be held in
a fully democratic situation.

`Rasul Guliyev misappropriated the state money at sum of $110
million. In nine years he in collaboration with pro-Armenian forces
carried out subversive activities against th Azerbaijani state,’
Garalov said. He also promised that in case of an arrest all
Guliyev’s rights would be secured. Garalov also rejected a common
opinion that in case of an arrest Guliyev would be treated as a
political prisoner. `He cannot be considered as a political prisoner,
because he committed an economical crime,’ the prosecutor concluded.

Turkish writer Orhan Pamuk expects acquittal

Agence France Presse
Oct 16 2005

Turkish writer Orhan Pamuk expects acquittal

Sunday, 16 October , 2005, 16:31

Istanbul: Prominent Turkish novelist Orhan Pamuk expects to be
acquitted over his controversial remarks about the Armenian
massacres, but has warned that court cases against intellectuals are
damaging Turkey’s bid to join the European Union.

“I do not believe my case will result in a conviction, but one cannot
join the EU by making one’s writers suffer at the courts,” Pamuk, 53,
said in an interview with CNN Turk television late on Saturday.

The widely translated author of such internationally renowned works
as My Name Is Red and Snow, Pamuk is set to appear before court on
December 16 on charges of denigrating Turkish national identity by
telling a Swiss newspaper that “one million Armenians and 30,000
Kurds were killed in these lands and nobody but me dares to talk
about it”.

He risks a prison term of between six months and three years.

Pamuk’s remarks, which refer to mass killings of Armenians under the
Ottoman Empire (which many countries have recognised as genocide,
much to Ankara’s ire), still largely a taboo, and the Kurdish
conflict in southeastern Turkey, sparked a public outcry that the
writer is selling out national interests.

Pamuk has said he received several death threats. A provincial
official in western Turkey ordered the seizure and destruction of his
books, but the order was retracted when the EU-wary government
intervened.

“I’m still standing behind my words,” a defiant Pamuk said. “My aim
was to start a little bit of a discussion on this taboo, because this
taboo is an obstacle for our entry into the EU. What I say may not be
true, you may not agree with me, but I have the right to say it.”

Pamuk said he felt disturbed over what he described as attempts by
opponents of Turkey’s EU membership to use the court case against him
for their own political ends.

“I support Turkey’s bid to join the EU… but I cannot tell those
opponents of Turkey ‘It’s none of your business whether they try me
or not’… So I feel stuck in between. This is a burden,” he said.

During a visit to Turkey earlier this month, EU enlargement
commissioner Ollie Rehn lent support to Pamuk by visiting him at his
home in Istanbul and lunching with him in a restaurant at the
Bosphorus.

Nashua goes to war

Nashua Telegraph, NH
Oct 16 2005

Nashua goes to war

By ALAN S. MANOIAN

Published: Sunday, Oct. 16, 2005

April 1917, the United States was forced to declare war on Imperial
Germany, entering the European bloodbath that was World War I.

By this time, Nashua was a city of 25,000 with a rich mix of proud
immigrant groups. The city had many well-established ethnic enclaves,
neighborhoods and parishes. Irish, French-Canadians, Greeks, Poles,
Lithuanians, Jews, Armenians and others called Nashua home. The
long-settled families of the old colonial Yankees, Scotch-Irish and
African-Americans had become increasingly accustomed to the new,
modern multicultural manufacturing city. Nashua had become one great
multi-ethnic mosaic.

The Great War would vividly demonstrate the depth of Nashuans’ new
social, cultural and economic cohesion as Americans, as well as their
neighborly commitment to each other. That’s because in 1917 and 1918
the Great War was fought not only by the boys in the armed forces in
Europe, but also by the entire community.

In July 1917, the Federal Selective Service Conscription Act was
enacted. The initial New Hampshire quota of young men was 1,204. The
first roster of Nashua Guardsmen was brought together as Companies D
and I of the 103rd Infantry Regiment, American Expeditionary Forces.
Company D totaled 147 and Company I had 154 men, including legendary
Nashua heroes James E. Coffey and Amedee Deschenes, and the not so
famous, but equally brave Sarkis Sermonian, Charley Kiratsos, James
Zepuka, David Oshansky, Fredrick Osgood, John McNulty and the many
others.

These were the boys of the city, the boys of the neighborhoods and
parishes, that everybody knew and loved. We must realize today that
back in 1917, 90 percent of the total population of Nashua lived in
close proximity to each other, in compact inner-city neighborhoods,
including poor, middle-class and affluent; they were not sprawled out
as is the case today across the entire 36 square miles of the city
limits. Unlike today, everyone knew their neighbors intimately.

One young man should be mentioned at this point: Pvt. Edward
Clifford, or, as known in Nashua, Eddie. Clifford was the first
Nashuan to enlist in World War I at the outbreak of the war in 1914.
Both his mother and father had died some time before, and the
25-year-old Clifford enlisted in the Royal Irish Regiment and went to
Europe to fight. It was reported of him in 1917, `he has been in the
trenches in France for the past two years . . . he was in the thick
of the terrible battle in which Maj. Redmond, the Irish leader, the
commander was killed . . . he writes that they are giving the Germans
their fill, and now when the Irish charge the Germans do not meet
them, for all the fight has been taken out of them . . . the Germans
do not care to meet the Irishmen when the latter are out for
trouble.’

Sadly, in September 1918, just two months before the end of the war,
Clifford was killed. It was said of him, `He was wounded several
times but went back each time . . . it was the spirit of boys (such)
as Eddie Clifford that has put the fear of God in the Germans, and
the victory has been with the Allies.’

In July 1917, the Nashua boys of Co. D and Co. I marched up Main
Street, turned onto East Pearl Street en route to the Union Railroad
Station, and went off to war.

`Escorted by several hundred of Nashua’s representative citizens, and
passing through the streets filled with a cheering throng, although
upon the face of many a person were visible signs of tears, 308
stalwart Nashua soldiers left . . . forward to the battle lines in
France . . . it was a never to be forgotten sight as the train pulled
from the station with the boys in olive drab leaning from the
windows, some singing, grasping the hands of their friends and
families,’ according to reports.

The Nashua boys first went to Concord to meet up with other New
Hampshire companies under Col. Healey, then down to Camp Green in
Charlotte, N.C. Afterwards many other Nashuans trained at Fort Devens
in Ayer, Mass., before going off to France.

Homefront efforts

Back in the city, the community war effort kicked into full gear. The
local American Red Cross Chapter began to make Comfort Kits for each
local soldier; the kits being comprised of towels, shoe brushes,
cakes of toilet soap, tubes of toothpaste, sticks of shaving soap,
cans of talcum powder, shoelaces, bottles of three-in-one oil, shoe
polish, boxes of cigarettes and chewing gum.

The gymnasium at the YMCA on Temple Street was opened and special
programs were offered for new Nashua soldiers to get into improved
physical and moral shape for the battles and extreme personal
military challenges ahead in Europe. The Nashua Public Library
launched a civic program to collect masses of reading materials for
the soldiers so they could occupy and soothe themselves with great
literary works while in the trenches at the front.

At this time, in August 1917, the national food conservation movement
came into being. All kids of foodstuffs were needed to send to the
front and food at home became short or even rationed, so the `war
garden’ effort began.

Most noted locally was the Nashua Manufacturing Company, the Jackson
Manufacturing Company and the Nashua Gummed and Coated Paper Company
(today’s Nashua Corp), all of which planted expansive potato and bean
fields upon their Nashua riverfront land around the inner city, and
on estate land backing onto the Merrimack River behind Concord
Street. A great potato storehouse was prepared in the cellar of the
Nashua Gummed and Coated Paper Co. on Franklin Street.

Also notable was the Pennichuck Water Works, which built a massive
farm produce cellar of fieldstone and timbers on its land that stored
500 bushels of potatoes and 50 bushels of beans and corn for the war
effort in September 1917.

The Nashua Telegraph also took the lead in the effort to aid the
Nashua boys soon going off to France by printing a daily piece
titled: `Fast Lessons in French for the Soldier Boys.’ The daily
piece presented a number of important phrases such as, `Are the
German Troops near here? Ya-t-il des troupes allemandes pres d’ici?’

In December 1917, The Telegraph pitched in again. Nashua Infantry
Companies D and I were camped in dirt-floor shelter tents in North
Carolina when they got some nine inches of snow. The Nashua boys sent
an urgent telegram to the

city stating, `We had a fierce snowstorm here . . . and we are in
tents . . . us poor devils are undergoing the most severe conditions.
The boys from Nashua hereby apply and appeal to the Nashua Red Cross
for 50 pairs of woolen socks at once if they can be obtained, if not
as soon as possible . . . if the socks can be sent, please have them
forwarded . . . I am writing now and my feet are soaked, and very
cold.’ When the telegram was received it was the Nashua Telegraph
that immediately responded and quickly purchased, gathered and
shipped the requested woolen socks.

The women of Nashua were also hard at work in the war effort. In
September 1917 there was a call for sweaters for the Nashua soldiers;
it was soon reported that 270 Nashua women were energetically engaged
in knitting 200-plus sweaters for the city’s soldiers.

In 1917, many, if not most, of these young French-Canadian, Greek,
Yankee, Polish and other Nashua boys were employees of the great
manufacturing enterprises of the city, including the textile
factories, iron foundries, shoe shops, lumber mills, railroads, etc.
So, even the factories did their part to bolster and express their
pride and confidence in their boys. This was well demonstrated by the
Jackson Manufacturing Co. on Canal Street as it proudly raised a
handmade Service Flag of 19 stars, which showed the number of
employees then in the military service, over the mill buildings.

Nashua’s Jewish community did its part, as well. It was reported in
September 1917, `Hebrew War Effort: Temple Beth Abraham and Linus
Hatzedak had raised over $500 and would make a trip with 10
automobiles down to Fort Devens in Ayer, Massachusetts to provide
necessities to 50 young Hebrew soldiers.’

One of the necessities that young soldiers of all faiths constantly
requested was cigarettes. It was reported, `Soldiers at Front Badly
Need Tobacco: Send us tobacco, that is what we need more than any
other one thing which the folks at home can do for us . . . the
American soldiers are forced to pay 28 cents per 5 cent package of
smoking tobacco . . . it is hard to procure even at this price . . .
they long for a good smoke of the kind of tobacco that they are used
to . . . it is hoped that various organizations, either clubs or
societies of men or women will open up subscriptions in order that
Nashua may do her full part.’

Civic leaders

During these trying war years, James B. Crowley was mayor of Nashua.
It was he who gave the powerful and heartfelt speeches and made his
presence known at every gathering, demonstration, parade and send-off
for the boys and their families.

Nashua could probably not have had a better man to lead the city
during these years, because Mayor Crowley was the son of a true and
genuine Nashua-born American Civil War military hero and patriotic
martyr, Maj. Timothy B. Crowley, of the famed Irish Company B of the
New Hampshire 10th Volunteer Regiment.

It was said of Maj. Crowley in 1897, `In every hour of battle and
danger he was at the front sharing the hardships and never flinching.
In the gallant charge at the second battle of Fair Oaks in 1864, he
was severely wounded in the hip. For this distinguished bravery in
this action he was promoted to the rank of Major . . . since that day
at Fair Oaks he was a constant sufferer; a sufferer for his country,
but no man ever heard him express regret for the service he had
rendered the old flag, for which in the prime of his manhood he laid
down his life.’

In September 1917, Mayor Crowley addressed the next wave of Nashua
boys recently drafted and going to the front in France, he said at
their farewell, `The demonstration this afternoon shows the esteem of
the people of this community to your going, and the expression of
their confidence in you. All I can say, all that I can do, is simply
to extend to you the confidence that the people have in you. . . . I
would ask you to be clean of body, pure of spirit, and there is no
question of the result of your endeavor; I bid you Godspeed.’

In October 1917, the thousands of workers in the numerous Nashua
factories and manufacturing companies organized and conducted a huge
patriotic parade on Main Street in order to launch the great Liberty
Bond Drive for the war effort. The headline read: `Seven Thousand
Five Hundred Men and Women Parade Through Main Street and Throng Mass
Meetings in the Most Remarkable Out Turning Ever Seen in This City.’

The other great campaign of the fall of 1917 was the YMCA `Big Red
Triangle’ Campaign. This campaign was led by the most affluent men
and families of Nashua; the owners and directors of the mills, banks
and other businesses. They sought to raise $35,000, which was a huge
amount of money in 1917 for a city the size of Nashua. In fact, they
exceeded their aims and ultimately raised almost $50,000 for the war
effort. Each time they met and exceeded a monetary goal, a red light
was placed on an electric sign in front of City Hall, which then
stood on the east side of Main Street between Park and Temple
streets. Everyone in the city, whether poor, rich or in-between, was
together in this great civic war effort.

In November 1917, the Nashua Chapter of the Knights of Columbus
launched a program to raise some $5,000 for the boys at the front;
they met and exceeded their goals as well. Again, whether Protestant,
Catholic, Jewish or other, all were together pushing hard every day.

Also in November 1917, it was reported, `A large shipment was made by
the Nashua chapter of the Red Cross last week: The shipment was made
up of the following: 180 sweaters, 72 pair of socks, 48 pair of
wristlets, 6 pair of bed socks, 6 helmets, 24 mufflers, 5 three yard
bandages, 12 eye bandages, 2060 gauze compresses, 96 nurses mitts, 48
wash cloths, 72 surgical sheets, 18 pajamas, 220 handkerchiefs, 18
ambulance pillows, 445 soultetus bandages, 455 triangular bandages,
15 T bandages, 110 four tail bandages, 7 shoulder wraps, 12 fracture
pillows.’

A city mourns

In November 1917, Pvt. James E. Coffey of 51 Broad St. wrote home to
his mother from England before going over to the battlefront in
France: `I received your letter and was glad to hear from you all. We
are all well and happy and never felt better in our lives . . . This
will be a trip that will never be forgotten by any of the boys. Well,
I don’t know when I’ll be back home again . . . If you should happen
to see Bald Arnold or Eddy O’Neil tell them this is a trip well worth
taking for their country and I shall never regret the day I signed up
. . . I am thinking that this war is going to last some time to come.
So here I am until this little game is over with . . . Well, dear
mother and sisters as I can’t give you any more information of where
we are for this letter might get lost or some German might get at it,
and then we might get what the French and English are getting, some
hot lead . . . Give my regards to the boys. Good bye and good luck
and God bless you all.’

On May 10, 1918, 22-year-old Pvt. Coffey, along with his fellow
Nashuans, Sgt. Clement W. Gravelle and Pvt. Edmond Leblanc, all of
Co. D, 103rd Infantry Regiment were killed in action.

These three young men were Nashua’s first lives lost in the Great
War, with Coffey the first to fall.

At the very same battle, James Coffey’s brother, William B. Coffey,
19 years old and also a member of Co. D, was seriously wounded. It
was reported that he was, `laying at the point of death in a hospital
in France.’ William, however, survived the gas attack and wrote home
to his mother soon after saying, `Just a word to let you know that I
am well and happy once more. I leave for the front again, and glad
that I am going back to join the boys. Don’t worry about me, it’s all
in the chance. I have won a wounded strip on the right arm, and a
couple more won’t look bad . . . But, believe me, when I get back to
the front, I’ll have a bone to pick with the Germans. God help the
prisoners, they won’t live long. I never did a job yet, but what I
could finish it, and I am hoping to finish those Huns with the rest
of the boys. There are only a few of the boys left after the attack,
but they are still in the game. Well, I received your mail and
picture. Ma, you took a good one. Well, cheer up, when you get my
letter, you can picture me back in the trenches. Best wishes and love
to all.’

That summer of 1918, the Nashua boys of Co. D and I were in the thick
of the action in France. In September, Lt. Joseph P. Lee of 102 Ash
St. came home for a seven-day leave before reassignment. He told the
Nashua folks of the battles their boys had bravely served in that
summer. He said of the July battles, `The men of the two Nashua
companies had had their mettle proved in the sharpest fighting on the
Chateau-Thierry, and all had acquitted themselves like heroes. The
Xivray battle, in which Co. I had the big part to play, was one of
the great actions of the whole war. The Nashua men’s companies again
were at the forefront of the fighting when the Germans were turned
back at Chateau-Thierry . . . It was here that Company D suffered the
heaviest toll in its fighting to date. Company I was in the first
battalion forming the shock troops for our attack . . . it went under
terrific machine gun fire. Everyone will tell you what its work was.
Every man fought for all that was in him . . . the men now are
veterans. I am proud of the Nashua boys.’

During the intense battle of Xivray on July 16, three more Nashua
boys were killed; Cpl. Fred Kearns, Pvt. Sarkis Sermonian and Pvt.
Charles Dubuque. It was reported of Sermonian, `He was born 26 years
ago in Armenia . . . he had been a resident of Nashua for seven
years, and an employee of the Nashua Manufacturing Co., prior to his
enlistment in Co. 1, First NH Infantry, when it went to service on
the Mexican border. He continued in the military upon discharge . . .
and went to Concord and Westfield camps, with his company. He was a
young man who had a wide circle of friends, and old militia men say
he was a good soldier.’

Kearns wrote his wife, Bessie, in Nashua on June 9 as follows: `Dear
Little Wife, Just a few lines to let you know that I am still
thinking of you and the folks . . . hope mother’s cold is better. I
sure will be some happy boy to get a picture of you and the baby.
Bess, you are right when you said you knew who your friends were. But
cheer up, Bess, me and you for a little home of our own and better
days are coming sometime if an old German or `Square Head’ don’t get
me . . . well, Bess, we couldn’t all have weak hearts because some of
us had to pass and help out Uncle Sam . . . Love and kisses to you,
and good luck, and God bless you. From Your Little Hubby.

Pvt. Gilbert Mitchell of 140 Canal St. also wrote to his parents,
letting them know that he was wounded, but would be all right, he
went on to say, `They tell me that I will be sent home and all that,
but I am going back into the fight if there is a possible chance. I
didn’t come over here to quit with the game just starting. It would
seem like heaven to home, but then, I have seen so much death and
suffering in the past ten months, I have become immune to any
emotions connected with losing my friends and comrades. It is nearly
a year since I bid you goodbye and made me feel a bit sad, but I try
to remain cheerful, for sadness is not good for anyone here. Love to
all my friends.’

War’s end

The Great War finally came to an end with the surrender of Germany on
Nov. 11, 1918. Nashua had lost many of her boys from all the distinct
ethnic groups, and many others came home terribly wounded and
psychologically affected from the carnage and gas attacks that they
had somehow lived through. But they all came home as Americans, to a
city of deeply and profoundly appreciative and proud families,
friends and fellow citizens of the United States of America.

They were all real Americans now, no matter where they, their parents
or grandparents had originally emigrated from.

On Nov. 11, 1918, it was reported in the Nashua Telegraph, `Nashua
uncorked enthusiasm pent-up from last week . . . The word reached
Nashua at 4 o’clock. At 4:10 a.m. the fire bell tolled out the news,
in accordance with the arrangements made by Mayor James B. Crowley.
Nashua has seen some glorious Fourth of July celebrations in years
gone by . . . Nashua this morning went back to the old time way, with
variations. Bells were rung, whistles blown, cowbell and tin pan
parades filled the street from one end of the city to the other. Guns
were fired, horns tooted, rockets shot into the air and red fire
blazed everywhere . . . An old wash boiler or tin ash can, securely
fastened to the rear axles of automobiles being hauled over the
pavements at a raid rate was an innovation over the old-time din
making contrivances. Old Mount Pleasant bells pealed out shortly
after 4:30, being the first bell on the north side . . . shortly
after 5 o’clock the chimes on the First Congregational Church began
playing and added music to the racket which at this hour reached a
point never before equaled in this city . . .

`Some patriotic young men who owned fifes and drums, got downtown at
an early hour, soon a parade formed after the manner as the famous
Harvard `snake dance’ and up and down Main Street it passed again and
again. In its ranks were many well known citizens . . . Nothing like
it was ever seen in the city.’

This was how Nashua, in grand civic ritual, went to war and
celebrated the return of her brave soldiers as a true community some
87 years ago.

How shall we, the city, continue to support Nashua’s military
personnel fighting in Iraq and Afghanistan today? How shall we
celebrate their proud return home to good old Nashua after their
noble part in the hard-fought battle is honorably finished?

Alan Manoian of Nashua is the city’s former assistant economic
director and downtown development specialist. He can be reached at
[email protected].