Turkish journalist, voice for Armenian minority,

The Associated Press
January 19, 2007 Friday 11:28 PM GMT

Turkish journalist, voice for Armenian minority, killed by gunman in
Istanbul

By BENJAMIN HARVEY, Associated Press Writer

DATELINE: ISTANBUL Turkey

Hrant Dink, who frequently went on trial for condemning the mass
killing of Armenians by Turks, predicted in his last newspaper column
that he would continue to suffer as a result of being labeled an
"enemy of Turkey."

"My computer’s memory is loaded with sentences full of anger and
threats," Dink wrote on Jan. 10. "I am just like a pigeon. … I look
around to my left and right, in front and behind me as much as it
does. My head is just as active."

On Friday afternoon at the entrance to the newspaper’s offices, a
gunman pumped two bullets into the journalist’s head. Dink was 52.

By evening, thousands marched down the bustling street where he was
slain. They blocked traffic, carried posters of Dink and shouted
slogans in favor of free expression.

Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan twice addressed the country to
condemn the killing and vow to capture those responsible. Late
Friday, Istanbul’s governor announced that three people were
arrested, CNN-Turk television reported without giving further
details.

Most Turks assumed the shooting was politically motivated, a reaction
to Dink’s public statements that the mass killings of Armenians
around the time of World War I constituted genocide. Nationalists see
such statements as insults to the honor of Turks and as threats to
national unity.

Regardless of the motive for Dink’s killing, Turkey remains a place
where people speak freely at their own peril despite generations of
Western-looking liberal reformers. The New York-based Committee to
Protect Journalists said that in the past 15 years, "18 Turkish
journalists have been killed for their work, many of them murdered,
making it the eighth deadliest country in the world for journalists."

Dink was one of dozens of journalists, writers and academics who have
gone on trial for expressing their opinions here, most under the
infamous article 301 of the penal code, which makes it a crime to
insult Turkey, its government or the national character.

In the most famous case, Nobel Prize-winning novelist Orhan Pamuk
faced jail time last year for insulting Turkey by saying Turks had
killed a million Armenians. His case was dropped on a technicality.

In a rare conviction, Dink was found guilty in October 2005 of trying
to influence the judiciary after his newspaper ran stories
criticizing Article 301. He was given a six-month suspended sentence.

Dink, a Turkish citizen of Armenian descent who edited the bilingual
Turkish-Armenian newspaper Agos, clearly sensed his life was in
danger.

In his final column, he complained that authorities had not responded
to his letters about threats against him and his death less than two
weeks later will raise yet more questions about Turkey’s commitment
to democracy as it strives to join the European Union.

"I have become famous as an enemy of Turkey," he wrote.

The U.S. State Department called the slaying a "tragic incident."
Noting that Dink received threats for his writing, deputy spokesman
Tom Casey said: "Certainly we never want to see a situation in which
individuals are intimidated or in fact suffer retribution of any kind
simply for freely expressing their views."

Dink, who is survived by his wife, Rakel, and their three children,
was charming, soft-spoken and eloquent, even debonair. He was
respected and beloved by many Turks who disagreed with his views but
admired his courage in stating them.

He was hated by just as many.

The last that many Turks saw of Dink was the shocking image of his
body, face down and covered with a white sheet, his dress shoes
awkwardly splayed, lying in a small pool of blood on the middle of an
Istanbul sidewalk.

Witnesses said four bullet shells could be seen near his body. Family
members and co-workers cried and consoled one another as police
cordoned off the area and the crowd of onlookers, some of them with
sadness and shock etched onto their faces, grew larger.

In the past few years, Turks had come to know Dink well, most often
because of the high-profile freedom of expression cases opened
against him, in which he faced jail time for talking of genocide.

In late 2005, Turks saw Dink lose his composure, crying on national
television as he discussed his latest court case and what it was like
to live amid people who hated him and what he stood for.

"I’m living together with Turks in this country," he said in an
October interview with The Associated Press as he contemplated his
trial. "I don’t think I could live with an identity of having
insulted them in this country. … If I am unable to come up with a
positive result, it will be honorable for me to leave this country."

His friend Can Dundar, also a journalist, said he wished Dink had
left, as he once promised to do.

"Hrant’s body is lying on the ground as if those bullets were fired
at Turkey," Dundar told private NTV television.

Dink said he would stay in Turkey, however, in the hopes that cases
he opened at the European Court of Human Rights would be resolved in
his favor, and do something to improve his country.

Turkey’s relationship with its Armenian community has long been
fraught with tension, controversy and painful memories of a brutal
past. Much of Turkey’s once-sizeable Armenian population was killed
or driven out beginning around 1915 in what an increasing number of
countries are recognizing as the first genocide of the 20th century.

Turks vehemently deny that their ancestors committed genocide,
however, and saying so is tantamount here to treason. In the 1970s
and 1980s, tensions were further inflamed as dozens of Turkish
diplomats were killed by Armenian assassins seeking revenge.

Turkey, which is 99 percent Muslim, and Armenia, which claims to be
the first country to officially adopt Christianity, share a border.
But the border is closed, and the two countries have no formal
diplomatic relations.

But it’s not only the Armenian issue that draws fire here. Kurds have
suffered for years with oppressive laws limiting their ability to
speak their own language or speak up for equal rights. The country’s
dwindling Greek Orthodox community is the target of frequent protests
against its leader, the Istanbul-based Patriarch Bartholomew I.

A Catholic priest was murdered last year as he prayed in his church,
apparently by a teenage Turk incensed by the publication across
Europe of cartoons lampooning Islam’s Prophet Muhammad. Other priests
were also attacked and threatened.

Reporters Without Borders, a press freedom organization, urged
Turkey’s government to do everything possible to catch Dink’s
killers, and to recognize the "extreme gravity" of the crime.

"This murder will distress and disturb all those who defend the
freedom of thought and expression in Turkey and elsewhere," the group
said in a statement. "This will be a key test for a country that
hopes to join the European Union."

Dink’s killing will likely come to many as a final warning of the
consequences of failure, and his last column suggested he wasn’t
optimistic.

"For me, 2007 is likely to be a hard year," Dink wrote. "The trials
will continue, new ones will be started. Who knows what other
injustices I will be up against."

Recognition needed for ambassadors

Burbank Leader, CA
Jan 20 2007

Recognition needed for ambassadors

The Armenian Assembly of America issued a statement stressing the
importance of formal U.S. recognition of the Armenian genocide to
facilitate relations between the two countries, and between Turkey
and Armenia.

Until then, the Assembly asserted that U.S. ambassadors in Armenia
will not be as effective and will remain restricted in efforts to
improve relationships between nations.

The president of Armenia and its foreign minister have suggested the
country set aside the issue of Turkey’s recognition of the genocide,
as it is a barrier for relations.

The Assembly also calls for a U.S. Ambassador in Armenia’s capital
city of Yerevan and a formal statement from the U.S. that recognizes
the genocide, which would allow its ambassadors to refer to it as
such.

Hackers attack Gorbachev’s Web site over 1990 demos in Azerbaijan

Associated Press
Jan 20 2007

Hackers attack Gorbachev’s Web site over 1990 demonstration in Azerbaijan

By Associated Press ©

Moscow, 20 January 2007 – Hackers attacked the Web site of a
foundation run by former Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev, accusing
him of brutally suppressing a pro-independence demonstration in
Soviet Azerbaijan in 1990.

The perpetrators posted photographs of the suppressed rally on the
Web site and published an open letter to the former leader, blaming
him for the deaths of more 130 people – a tragedy known in Azerbaijan
as the Black January.

The site was down by Saturday afternoon.

Fueled by the conflict over the disputed territory of
Nagorno-Karabakh, a mountainous region inside Azerbaijan populated
mostly by ethnic Armenians, pogroms broke out against Armenians in
Azerbaijan’s capital Baku in January 1990, forcing Soviet troops to
intervene and evacuate many Armenians.

Thousands rallied in Baku demanding the ouster of communist officials
and independence from the Soviet Union, causing Soviet troops to
storm the capital late at night on Jan. 19, 1990.

Shootings and violent clashes lasted several days, leaving 134 people
dead and more than 770 wounded. International rights groups said the
force used against the demonstrators was excessive and
disproportionate.

Azerbaijan gained independence in 1991 after the Soviet collapse.

No one from Gorbachev’s foundation was immediately available for
comment. It was unclear if the site’s owners took it down after
learning of the hack, or if it was taken down by hackers.

Awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1990, Gorbachev maintains an active
public life running the Gorbachev Foundation – an organization that
deals with international issues including globalization, security,
weapons of mass destruction, environmental and natural resources and
poverty.

ANKARA: Foreign Ministry Condemns Assassination Of Dink

Turkish Press
Jan 20 2007

Foreign Ministry Condemns Assassination Of Dink
Published: 1/20/2007

ANKARA – The Turkish Foreign Ministry strongly condemned the
assassination of Turkish journalist of Armenian descent Hrant Dink,
editor-in-chief of bilingual Turkish-Armenian weekly Agos, on Friday.

The ministry expressed sorrow over death of Dink, and stated,
"security forces launched initiatives to arrest the assassin or
assassins."

The ministry offered condolences to family and relatives of Dink as
well as staff of Agos weekly and Turkish people of Armenian descent.

Under Secretary Burns to travel to Turkey and the Middle East

Under Secretary Burns to travel to Turkey and the Middle East

ArmRadio.am
19.01.2007 11:03

Under Secretary of State for Political Affairs R. Nicholas Burns will
visit Turkey, Israel, the Palestinian territories, and the United Arab
Emirates January 18-23, 2007. In Ankara January 18-19, he will meet
with Prime Minister Erdogan, Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of
Foreign Affairs Abdullah Gul as well as other Turkish diplomatic and
defense officials to discuss bilateral and regional issues. Turkey is
a valued NATO ally and Under Secretary Burns will discuss Iraq, Iran,
and bilateral issues with Turkish officials. He will assert strong US
support for Turkey’s defense against attacks by the PKK.

Under Secretary Burns will then travel to Tel Aviv and Jerusalem,
where he will meet with Prime Minister Olmert and other Israeli
officials. He will lead the U.S. delegation to the U.S.-Israel
Strategic Dialogue talks focusing on the Middle East, including the
challenge posed by Iran. Under Secretary Burns will also meet with
Palestinian officials in Jerusalem.

On January 22-23, he will visit Abu Dhabi and Dubai in the United Arab
Emirates (UAE) where he will meet with UAE Prime Minister and Ruler of
Dubai Sheikh Mohammad bin Rashid al Maktoum, UAE Foreign Minister
Sheikh Abdullah bin Zayed Al Nayhan, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and
Deputy Commander of the UAE Armed Forces Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed al
Nahyan to discuss regional and bilateral issues.

Jhangiryan Was Present And Not Present

JHANGIRYAN WAS PRESENT AND NOT PRESENT

Panorama.am
17:40 17/01/2007

Those who participated in a court hearing on Mataghisi Case assure
that Gagik Jhangiryan, deputy general prosecutor and former military
prosecutor, was present at the hearing.

The Appeal Court released three young men accused in murder at a
military unit and sentenced for life sentence by Review Court.

Despite of these claims, press secretary of general prosecutor’s
office say "the prosecutors were not given a chance to participate
in the hearing and the military prosecutor’s office was not duly
informed about the day of the trial."

Georgia’s First Lady Visits Yerevan Brandy Company

GEORGIA’S FIRST LADY VISITS YEREVAN BRANDY COMPANY

ArmRadio.am
18.01.2007 13:47

Georgia’s First Lady Sandra Elisabeth Roelofs visited the Yerevan
Brandy Company today.

President and Director General of the Yerevan Brandy Company Herve
Caroff presented a 25-year-old "Erebuni" cognac to the First Lady of
Georgia, Mediamax reports.

Herve Caroff noted that this year the company will celebrate its 120th
anniversary, and currently corresponding preparations are underway.

TBILISI: Sokhumi Desires Multinational Parliament

HEADLINE: SOKHUMI DESIRES MULTINATIONAL PARLIAMENT

The Messenger, Georgia
Jan 15 2007

The newspaper Akhali Taoba reports that February and March will
be politically hot. Two elections will be held in Abkhazia in two
months. The de facto government will carry out local government
elections in February and the parliament will be chosen in March.

Preparations for the elections have already begun. Political parties
and organizations have begun registration. The Abkhazian Central
Election Committee will collect registration materials through
January 31.

Some political parties will participate in the elections. Two parties
that will participate are de facto president of Abkhazia Sergey
Baghapsh’s and de facto vice president Raul Khajimba’s parties.

According to some reports, Russia will support Khajimba and Abkhazians
and Armenians will vote for Baghapsh.

Armenians are very interesting figures in the Abkhazian government.

There are more Armenians living in Abkhazia than Abkhazia.

Previously, the Armenian Diaspora asked the Abkhazian government to
give them five seats in the Abkhazian parliament. This request was
uncomfortable for the Abkhazian side and particularly for Khajimba
who became very angry and made some hostile comments about Armenians.

During the presidential elections, Armenians voted for Baghapsh and
they have a very good relationship.

Aram Manukian Does Not See Any Prohibition For Formation Of Pre-Elec

ARAM MANUKIAN DOES NOT SEE ANY PROHIBITION FOR FORMATION OF PRE-ELECTORAL ALLIANCE BETWEEN ANM AND "HANRAPETUTIUN" PARTY

Noyan Tapan
Jan 16 2007

YEREVAN, JANUART 16, NOYAN TAPAN. The Armenian National Movement (ANM)
party, like many other parties, is at the investigation-consulting
stage of the pre-electoral period when serious alliances were not
formed yet, but there are preconditions for their creation. Aram
Manukian, a ANM board member stated about it in the interview to
the Noyan Tapan correspondent. In his words, the ANM holds some
consultations concerning its own format of participation in the
elections with forces of the right liberal field. A.Manukian mentioned
that the ANM position concerning this issue will be defined in the
congress to take place in late February or early March.

A.Manukian stated that the ANM closely cooperates with the
"Hanrapetutiun" (Republic) party, and "there is no prohibition for
promoting joint pre-electoral campaign." In words of the ANM board
member, there are many people in the "Hanrapetutiun" party who are
creators, devoters of the independence, "boys remained clean."

In A.Manukian’s opinion, the criminal world, state administrative
resource and olygarches will compete in the 2007 elections with
political forces.

According to his foresight, Armenia will either appear in hands of
criminal elements or "again the liberal reformative forces will say
their serious word at the Parliament, and, consequently, will have
their serious activity in the inner and foreign policy of the RA." He
also mentioned that if the coming elections are falsified, Armenia
will finally be classified among the eastern backward countries and
it will be impossible to correct anything any more.

Annee de l’Armenie en France incite a decouvrir singuliere capitale

Les Echos, France
12 janvier 2007 vendredi

Tu n’as (encore) rien vu à Erevan

PIERRE DE GASQUET

L’année de l’Arménie en France incite à découvrir sa singulière
capitale et ses monastères.

Tu verras, les Turcs nous le rendront un jour, parce qu’ils savent
que cette montagne, c’est notre rêve. » La petite phrase du vieux
chauffeur d’Ariane Ascaride dans « Voyage en Arménie », le film de
Robert Guédiguian, une des meilleures introductions à Erevan,
illustre bien la prégnance du mont Ararat dans la vie quotidienne des
Arméniens. Qu’on en devine, ou pas, le cône neigeux, seulement
visible par temps clair, l’ombre du mont biblique où Noé aurait
échoué avec son arche selon la légende, plane toujours sur Erevan. Il
est omniprésent. Dans la mémoire, dans l’imaginaire et dans le coeur
de tous les Hays, comme s’appellent entre eux les descendants du
petits-fils de Noé, Hayk, le père fondateur mythique du premier Etat
chrétien. Même s’il est désormais séparé de la ville par la frontière
turque, à quelques dizaines de kilomètres seulement, depuis 1921, le
mont Ararat domine toujours la capitale arménienne du haut de ses
5.165 mètres. Comme une promesse de renaissance pour la plus petite
république de l’ex-URSS, qui a pris son indépendance en 1991, après
un demi-siècle de domination soviétique.

En arrivant à Erevan, ville dévastée, labourée, exténuée par le
rouleau compresseur soviétique, avec ses kilomètres d’usines
désaffectées et ses chantiers chaotiques, on a toutefois l’impression
d’entrer au coeur d’un vieux pays pétri d’histoire. Cela tient aux
grands totems qui bordent la cité : qu’il s’agisse du mémorial du
génocide, à l’ouest de la ville, de l’imposante statue de la mère
patrie, Tata Margo, avec son glaive à la main, qui a remplacé celle
de Staline en 1955, au nord, ou de l’imposant Matènadaran, le
fabuleux musée des Manuscrits, en partie restauré grce aux dons du
milliardaire américain Kirk Kerkorian. Mais pas seulement. Ce riche
passé transparaît aussi sur le visage des habitants, de ses vieilles
femmes aux faces burinées et aux yeux brillants ; dans les rires des
adolescents aux vestes de cuir noir, qui se tiennent joyeusement par
le bras dans les rues de la capitale.

Le plus frappant, lorsqu’on déambule sur les trottoirs de la rue
Abovian ou de l’avenue Toumanian, c’est le contraste entre cette
ville déglinguée, ses chantiers à ciel ouvert, ses grands btiments
délabrés, l’immensité du défi à relever et… la bonne humeur, la
légèreté apparente des jeunes générations. Partout, au marché central
du boulevard Lénine, rebaptisé aujourd’hui avenue Mesrop-Machtots (du
nom du fondateur de l’alphabet arménien en 405), ou aux abords de la
grande mosquée Bleue, seule survivante des huit mosquées que comptait
jadis Erevan, la même tranquillité, le même sentiment d’être chez
soi, tout en étant très loin.

La « Descente du fils unique »

A Erevan, il est difficile de se perdre. Toutes les grandes avenues
convergent vers la fameuse place de la République de 14.000 m2, où le
grand Lénine de bronze a été déboulonné. Centre du pouvoir et centre
des arts, où le grand hôtel Armenia, le plus beau de la ville, qui a
longtemps accueilli des générations de dignitaires soviétiques, a été
prosaïquement rebaptisé de son nom de chaîne, Marriott. Le soir venu,
il ne faut pas manquer d’y prendre un thé ou une infusion pour en
apprécier le charme suranné digne des premiers James Bond. Ce
jour-là, nous mettons le cap à l’ouest, en direction de la petite
ville d’Etchmiadzine, littéralement « Descente du fils unique », le «
Saint-Siège arménien » où a été construit le plus ancien édifice
chrétien.

On longe d’abord la distillerie Ararat, la gigantesque usine de
cognac d’Erevan rachetée par Pernod Ricard en 1999. On dit que
jusqu’à sa mort, Staline aurait fait livrer, chaque année, à sir
Winston Churchill, 365 bouteilles de ce brandy très prisé des Russes.
Passée l’imposante statue de l’amiral Isakov, qui veille sur
l’ambassade américaine, à 25 kilomètres à vol d’oiseau des bases de
l’Otan installées sur les flancs du mont Ararat, on traverse le « Las
Vegas » arménien, un long défilé de casinos où viennent volontiers
s’encanailler les Iraniens, interdits de jeux dans leur pays. Et
puis, soudain, presque sans transition, c’est le miracle du
sanctuaire d’Etchmiadzine, centre de pèlerinage des Arméniens du
monde entier où bat le coeur de l’Eglise apostolique arménienne
depuis le IVe siècle. La sobre pureté de cet édifice de pierres ocres
tranche avec la richesse de ses fresques intérieures réalisées dans
le style persan. C’est là que réside le Catholicos, Karékine II, le «
patriarche suprême » élu en 1999, et ses quelque 250 séminaristes.

Une vieille femme au visage enfoui dans son capuchon balaye,
vainement, l’amoncellement de feuilles mortes devant les grilles.
Comme si cela pouvait servir à quelque chose. Il y a quelques
gardiennes de monastères en Arménie, mais pas de religieuses
cisterciennes. Car le pays fut longtemps entouré de peuples polygames
: les Turcs, les Mongols… En revanche, les membres du clergé
arménien ne font pas voeu de chasteté. « Il y a moins d’hypocrisie. »

Courtois et posé avec sa petite barbiche noire parfaitement taillée,
le père Vahram, le porte-parole du patriarche, époussette avec soin
sa toque noire en parlant. « L’Eglise, c’est la couleur de la peau du
peuple arménien. » Pendant près de six siècles, c’est elle qui a
préservé l’« arménité » lorsqu’il n’y avait plus d’Etat. Financée à
80 % par la diaspora du monde entier, – on estime à 1,25 million le
nombre des Arméniens aux Etats-Unis, 900.000 dans l’ex-URSS et
400.000 en France -, c’est elle qui a longtemps pris en charge les
hôpitaux, les orphelinats, les maisons de retraite… La cathédrale
d’Etchmiadzine abrite de nombreuses reliques léguées par les
Byzantins et l’une des deux lances qui auraient percé le corps du
Christ. L’autre se trouve à Chypre. Les Italiens ont aussi offert un
reliquaire qui contient « l’empreinte du pied de la mère de Dieu,
seule icône de l’Eglise arménienne ».

La tournée des monastères

La visite de la cathédrale d’Etchmiadzine est une invitation au
voyage initiatique. Sans aller jusqu’aux grandes étendues naturelles
du plateau du Chirak, au nord d’Erevan, on peut rejoindre facilement
le petit monastère de Khor Virap, véritable balcon sur le mont
Ararat, presque à portée de main. En grimpant sur ses remparts dorés
par le soleil, on peut y scruter les glaciers où les pilotes de
l’armée russe avaient, assure-t-on, entrevu la carcasse de l’Arche de
Noé dans une crevasse. Le temps d’un lcher de colombes, – « Fais un
voeu pour quelques drams (la monnaie locale) ! », suggèrent les
jeunes gardiens – et l’on gravit le sentier de ce petit monastère
fortifié, entouré de vergers et de vignobles. Il n’y a plus de moines
depuis l’époque soviétique. Mais en empruntant une échelle de fer, on
peut encore y visiter la profonde fosse où Grégoire l’Illuminateur,
un prédicateur d’origine parte, moitié juif, moitié arménien, venu de
Cappadoce, fut emprisonné pendant treize ans, avant de convertir le
roi Tiridate III au christianisme, en l’an 301, faisant ainsi de
l’Arménie le premier Etat chrétien du monde.

Dans la même veine, l’un des sites les plus impressionnants des
environs d’Erevan est le monastère de Geghard, à 30 kilomètres de la
ville. C’est là que la dynastie des Prochian, vassaux des Zakarides
et ministres de la reine Tamar de Géorgie, a établi sa nécropole. Il
faut voir surgir, au coucher du soleil, ce haut lieu de l’art
rupestre, niché, à 1.600 mètres d’altitude, dans un pli du relief.
Avec ses chapelles troglodytes, directement creusées dans le basalte,
et son église souterraine entièrement sculptée, le monastère offre un
ensemble bigarré d’ornements mongols et arabes. En juin, les derniers
rayons du soleil tombent directement sur le tombeau de la princesse
dominé par les armes de la famille : deux tigres stylisés soutenant
un aigle royal qui enserre un agneau.

Un livre de 28 kilos

Il n’y a pas que les monastères des environs d’Erevan à mériter le
voyage. On sait peu que la Galerie nationale de peinture d’Erevan,
place de la République, constitue le troisième musée de l’ex-URSS,
par rang d’importance, après l’Ermitage de Saint-Pétersbourg et le
musée Pouchkine de Moscou. On y trouve des Chagall et des Kandinsky
rares, et même des Courbet ou des Fragonard… Au sein des
collections de peinture arménienne, qui occupent pas moins de trois
étages, une des oeuvres les plus impressionnantes est l’incroyable
Salomé du maître Vartkes Soureniants (Surenyants en arménien), avec
son grand chle brodé posé sur ses épaules nues, qui n’a rien à
envier à un Gustave Moreau. Ou encore son étrange « Sémiramis devant
le corps d’Ara le Magnifique », où la reine assyrienne contemple la
dépouille du roi d’Arménie qui refusait sa flamme. Un autre tableau
émouvant est la visite de lord Byron à l’île de Saint-Lazare, du
peintre Aïvazovski, où l’on voit le poète anglais, son chapeau à la
main, aborder l’île de la lagune vénitienne, sous un immense ciel
tumultueux. Une manière de prendre date pour visiter l’un des îlots
les moins connus de la lagune vénitienne où s’est installée la
congrégation arménienne des pères mekhitaristes.

Erevan regorge d’autres trésors culturels insoupçonnés, au premier
rang desquels le fameux musée du Matenadaran, sanctuaire du livre et
de la mémoire, qui abrite près de 17.000 manuscrits dans ses
réserves, – dont le plus grand au monde (28 kilos) et le « plus petit
» (19 grammes) -, ou encore l’étonnante maison-musée du cinéaste
Sergueï Paradjanov, le « Pasolini géorgien », d’origine arménienne,
auteur des « Chevaux de feu »…

Certains membres de la diaspora ont jugé sévèrement le « Voyage en
Arménie », le film de Robert Guédiguian. Trop noir, trop cynique, le
regard du fils de docker marseillais, qui a grandi à l’Estaque,
ferait la part trop belle à la mafia locale, aux 4 × 4 vrombissants,
aux assassinats en pleine rue. De fait, à première vue, les rues
d’Erevan ne ressemblent guère au Far-West ou même à celles de la
Moscou turbulente des années Poutine. Mais de l’aveu même des
diplomates en poste, le film n’est pas si éloigné de la réalité. Et
il ne faudrait pas occulter la corruption et son corollaire de
violence souterraine inévitable dans un pays où le revenu mensuel par
tête demeure encore inférieur à 80 dollars.

« Vous et votre pays de merde ! », s’emporte la fille de Barsam à la
fin du « Voyage en Arménie » de Guédiguian. C’est vrai, il est
austère ce pays de pierres et de douleur, constitué avec « ce qui
restait au fond du tamis lorsque Dieu a créé la terre », dit la
légende. Mais il est aussi étrangement attachant.

Finalement, en contemplant les douze stèles (les douze apôtres) en
basalte sombre du Mémorial du génocide arménien, au sommet de la
colline du fort aux hirondelles, – là où 1 million de personnes
viennent, chaque 24 avril, rendre hommage au 1,5 million de victimes
du crime de « lèse-humanité» -, les mots de Marguerite Duras nous
reviennent curieusement en tête. Notamment sur « l’illusion de
pouvoir ne jamais oublier » dans « Hiroshima mon amour ». « Tu n’as
rien vu à Hiroshima. Rien. » Et l’on se dit qu’on n’a (encore) rien
vu à Erevan.

Carnet pratique

Transports : Armavia et Air France assurent des vols directs
plusieurs fois par semaine (à partir de 400 euros), temps de vol : 5
heures (+ 3 heures de décalage horaire). Visa obligatoire à demander
à l’ambassade d’Arménie, 9, rue Viète, 75017 Paris.Hôtels : l’Armenia
Marriott, cinq étoiles, place de la République, l’hôtel historique le
plus huppé, qui a conservé son atmosphère, ou l’hôtel Europe
(), sans véritable charme mais fonctionnel et très
central.Restaurants : Tavern Our village, 5 Sayat Nova,
Erivan, 2 Tumanian Street, près de l’Opéra. Le Café
de Paris, 23 Abovian Street.A signaler : le Malkhaz Jazz Club, 52,
rue Pouchkine, véritable institution de la nuit d’Erevan, célébrée
par le journaliste-écrivain Louis Carzou.Le musée Sergueï Paradjanov,
lire : Guide Evasion, Arménie, Hachette
Livre 2006.« L’Arménie à l’épreuve des siècles », Découvertes
Gallimard 2005.En DVD : « Le Voyage en Arménie », de Robert
Guédiguian doit sortir le 22 février (Diaphana Edition Vidéo).

www.europehotel.am
www.alfael.amOld
www.parajanovmuseum.comA