Asbarez: ‘Meat-on-Skewers’: More Than a Festive Meal

Photo by John Lee

BY DAVIT ABRAHAMYAN

On a scorching 103-degree summer afternoon, we gathered around a charcoal grill to prepare Khorovads. The smell of smoky, sizzling meat on metal skewers had once again brought us together, reaffirming the bonds that unite Armenian families. Standing nearby and listening to the lively sound of overlapping conversations, I thought less about the plate full of Khorovads, and more about what it represents in Armenian culture.

Growing up in Los Angeles among the Armenian Diaspora, I came to understand how cultural identity was preserved through traditional gatherings. Weddings, baptisms, Easter, and Christmas celebrations brought along meaningful, heritage-rich experiences – instilling a sense of identity in the youth, and reminding the older generation of Armenians the core meaning behind these traditions. Yet, festive community celebrations seem incomplete without tasteful traditional dishes, and only a few meals tie food and culture together better than Khorovads.

In an era of assimilation, the ritual of gathering around the grill preserves a meaningful part of Armenian culture. The importance of Khorovads lies not in the finished meal, but in the traditions that unfold around the grill while the meat is being prepared. Around the crackling fire, friendships are built, stories are shared, and advice is given by elders with years of grilling experience. As the flames flicker, those around the fire begin the celebration with a toast to friendship and longevity – a tradition which has been carried across generations. Standing alongside our elders, we would observe these customs unfolding before our eyes. Once everyone gathered around the table, the meal began with guests being welcomed to try the finished meal first – resembling the hospitality embedded in Armenian culture.

Anthony Bourdain encountered this spirit firsthand during his 2018 visit to Armenia. Throughout his journey for an episode of Parts Unknown, the late celebrity chef explored Armenia’s extensive history through the rich flavors of Armenian cuisine. Against the backdrop of Artsakh’s sun-drenched mountains, the locals had the privilege of introducing the chef to the celebratory side of Armenian cuisine. Among the dishes he encountered, none captured Armenia’s hospitality more vividly than what he called the “Armenian Barbecue.” Anthony Bourdain, like many other visitors, was able to grasp the symbolic value of the meal not through formal customs, but around crowded tables, not within the walls of lavish restaurants, but in modest settings – which embodies the communal spirit of Armenian culture.

Much like my family, Diasporan Armenians have carried the generational tradition of breaking bread over the grill across Armenian borders. Last week, I came across a video on social media that gathered the attention of thousands, which also reaffirmed this belief of mine. Across a scenic lake in Norway, two Armenian exchange students encountered one another unexpectedly. To celebrate their acquaintance, the newfound friends strengthened their bond through a small, two-person festival featuring charcoal-grilled Khorovads. Unable to afford meat or even a traditional manghal, they improvised with potatoes, mortadella, and a makeshift aluminum grill. The two recreated the cultural experience of solidifying friendship that has been passed from generation to generation. Despite their modest means, the pair was celebrating their newfound friendship by singing, dancing to Armenian folk music, and filming videos which would later be shared across different social media platforms. In their modest surroundings, the two came to discover the significance behind the meal.

Though simple in appearance, Khorovads carries a significant cultural value — serving as a symbol of Armenian hospitality and uniting the Diaspora across borders. Whether in mass events or modest settings, Khorovads is more than meat on skewers; it is a cultural tradition Armenians carried across the globe. Even today, Diasporan celebrations often commence with a flavorful plate of Khorovads – a tradition that Armenians have cherished for centuries. Maybe that’s why Khorovads has stood the test of time. When the last skewer comes off the grill and the charcoal ash has cooled, what you’re left with is not the memory of a meal, but of family. Family that gathers Armenians together, no matter where they reside. Whether in Armenia, Los Angeles, or alongside a Norwegian lake, we continue to carry our cultural identity beyond Armenian borders around a charcoal grill that serves to preserve a piece of home.

Davit Abrahamyan is a junior at the University of California, Berkeley, where he is studying political science. He pens articles for Asbarez in his free time.

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