Against all odds, Armenia has preserved an ancient and distinctive winemaking

From the vineyard

Few nations on Earth have been so fiercely contested and yet so doggedly determined to preserve their identity, despite centuries of external dominance and even genocide, than minuscule, land-locked Armenia. Christianity has been critical to the continuing proud existence of this fiercely patriotic nation in the southern Caucasus, along with its ancient language, developed specifically to translate the Bible. Armenia was the first nation to embrace Christianity in 301 as its official religion, ante-dating by almost 80 years Theodosius’ adoption of Christianity as the official religion of the Roman Empire.

Against all odds, Armenia has also preserved an ancient and distinctive winemaking tradition. Though neighbouring Georgia rightly lays claim to being the world’s oldest wine producer, Armenia boasts remains of the oldest known, 6,000-year-old winery.

The nadir in Armenia’s wine culture was the Soviet occupation in 1920, which lasted for 71 years until independence in 1991. Private enterprise was abolished and wine estates were nationalised; but whereas wine production in Georgia continued under Soviet domination, Armenian grapes were used exclusively to produce brandy. Vines that had previously produced fine wine were replaced by inferior, fast-growing, long-fruiting varieties; but 1991 restored opportunities for serious wine production, and since then Armenia’s renaissance has been aided by outside help from distinguished European vintners.

Demographically and geographically, Armenia is a small country, no bigger than Belgium, with a population of three million. But its mountainous topography – it is one of highest wine-producing countries in the world – is diverse and dramatic. Its geology is volcanic, making for mineral-rich soils, and its wide temperature variations between day and night preserve acidity and allow for long, slow ripening, leading to a complexity of aroma and intensity of flavour derived from its 400 indigenous grape varieties.

Armenian winemaking still relies on the ancient amphorae known as karas (qvevri in Georgia) buried in the ground as the wine ferments: it maintains a stable cool temperature, allows small quantities of oxygen to penetrate the porous clay, thus softening tannins and creating a pleasing softness, and reduces the need for additives and filtering by keeping the lees in natural and gentle motion.

Among Armenia’s many varieties, four stand out. The best-known and most highly prized is Areni, an ancient thick skinned hardy grape similar to Sangiovese. Voskehat, also ancient, known as the Queen of Grapes, produces aromatic, citrusy whites. Haghtanak is a rich, deeply coloured, high tannin red. Kangun, the grape used in the Soviet era for brandy, now produces highly acidic white.

Armenian wine is not yet widely available but Majestic’s Art Armenia Areni 2024 (£16.50 but £12 if part of mixed six) from vines planted in 2006 is a perfect example of how far the revival has come, with plum, cherry and delicate spice on the nose. The Wine Society’s Zulal Areni Classic 2021 (£19) is from old ungrafted vines, producing wine somewhere between Syrah and Pinot Noir. Both appreciate decanting. The Wine Society’s Keush Origins Brut (£21), a sparkling wine from 100-year-old vines in the mountainous Vayots Dzor region, is bone-dry and steely, reflecting the famed resilience of the Armenians themselves.

N.O’Phile is The Tablet’s wine writer. He is also a senior Catholic priest.

https://www.thetablet.co.uk/columnists/against-all-odds-armenia-has-preserved-an-ancient-and-distinctive-winemaking-tradition/