BAKU: Paper slams Azeri president’s aircraft deal with Germany

Paper slams Azeri president’s aircraft deal with Germany

Azadliq, Baku
31 Aug 04

Text of Turqut’s report by Azerbaijani newspaper Azadliq on 31 August
headlined “White elephant” and subheaded “What is the plane worth 165m
dollars for?” and “This money seems to be a present for a meeting
with Schroeder”

The purchase of four Airbus 319 planes during [Azerbaijani President]
Ilham Aliyev’s visit to Germany still remains a topic of discussion
in the press. What is keeping the issue on the agenda so long is
the big amount of money that will be paid for these aeroplanes – 165m
dollars. This money is being spent on four passenger aircraft, while
less can help solve military, economic, social, cultural and other
problems persisting in the country. One of these aeroplanes is VIP
Personal. In other words, it has nothing to do with ordinary people,
and will serve Aliyev and his family. This jet alone costs 45m dollars.

Pay attention, in neighbouring Georgia [Georgian President Mikheil]
Saakashvili refuses to fly on a presidential plane in a bid to
avoid extra expenses. In Armenia, Kocharyan buys fighters, while
in Azerbaijan Aliyev spends 45m dollars on a plane for himself, as
though he had to travel on a plane worth 45m dollars… [ellipses
as published]

Azerbaijan’s planes and ships have been impounded and put on auction
in Turkey for the debt that is 10 times less than the cost of Aliyev’s
VIP Personal. Azerbaijan has pulled all its ships out of the Black
Sea fearing that they could be impounded as well. On the one hand, the
Aliyev government does not resolve the problem by repaying its debt,
saying that [Deputy Prime Minister] Abid Sarifov is on holiday. On
the other, it buys planes worth 165m dollars.

The most deplorable fact is that Aliyev paid 165m dollars for four
planes not to obtain any economic gain or strengthen Azerbaijan’s
air fleet, but purely for his political goals. Pay heed to what
German Chancellor [Gerhard] Schroeder said. The chancellor openly
declared at a news conference that Aliyev was buying the A-319 planes
not because of their superior quality, but because of political
objectives. It is, of course, understandable what political objectives
are at issue. Aliyev, who has seen the strict face of the USA more
frequently recently and who has not managed to receive an invitation
to that country for 10 months, has got offended and turned towards
Europe. And now, as if teasing Washington, he is busy filling the
budgets of German and French companies. If you remember, he struck
a similar aircraft deal during his visit to France.

If we translate these “political objectives” into an easier
language, it turns out that out of spite at the USA Aliyev has
inflicted 165m dollars of damage on the Azerbaijani people in order
to receive a better welcome in Germany and even to meet Schroeder,
whereas the Azerbaijani people have hundreds of woes that cost 165m
dollars… [ellipses as published]

BAKU: Foreign Minister satisfied with results of Prague meeting

Foreign Minister satisfied with results of Prague meeting

Assa-Irada, Azerbaijan
Sept 1 2004

Baku, August 31, AssA-Irada

Foreign Minister Elmar Mammadyarov has expressed his satisfaction
with the results of the meeting with his Armenian counterpart Vardan
Oskanian held in Prague on Monday.

Mammadyarov told local ATV that the Prague meeting was a step forward
to settle the Upper Garabagh conflict and that a concrete decision on
the continuation of talks will be made after the foreign ministers
report on the results of the meeting to their presidents.

Azerbaijani and Armenian presidents are scheduled to hold the next
meeting within the summit of the CIS heads of state to be held in
Astana, Kazakhstan on September 15.*

BAKU: 11 years pass since occupation of Gubadly District

11 years pass since occupation of Gubadly District

Assa-Irada, Azerbaijan
Sept 1 2004

Baku, August 31, AssA-Irada

Tuesday saw the 11th anniversary of the occupation of Gubadly District.

Members of the Popular Front Party of Azerbaijan, Garabagh Liberation
Organization, as well as the Garabagh war veterans and representatives
of a number of public organizations paid tribute to the Cemetery of
Martyrs on the occasion. Armenian military units that occupied Fuzuli
and Jabrayil districts on August 23 blockaded Gubadly District on
the same day. Armenians took control on the district following the
battles that lasted for 8 days.

232 local people fell victims and 146 became handicapped during the
battles. 95 settlements of the district with a total area of 826 square
kilometers are currently under the Armenian occupation. More than
30,000 residents of Gubadly have become internally displaced persons.*

How oil brought the dogs of war back to Malabo

How oil brought the dogs of war back to Malabo

As eight alleged coup plotters languish in jail, Raymond Whitaker reports
from Equatorial Guinea, where the President and his friends have lined their
pockets at the expense of their
countrymen

Independent/uk
02 September 2004

When Frederick Forsyth was looking for a suitable setting in which to
write The Dogs of War, his 1974 thriller about white mercenaries in
Africa, he chose this island capital. That was three decades ago but
not much has changed in Malabo since. Beneath green-draped volcanic
slopes, 200-year-old Spanish cannon still guard the palm-fringed
harbour and the damp-stained shopfronts. An air of “malarial lethargy”,
VS Naipaul’s phrase, still prevails.

But look out to sea from the terrace of the Bahia Hotel, where Eddie
the Eel practised in the comma-shaped swimming pool, one of only two on
the island, for his moment of glory at the Sydney Olympics, and there
is a sight Forsyth would not have seen. At night, the horizon glows
red; here and there a pinpoint of flame pierces the darkness. These
are the flares of the offshore platforms which have transformed
Equatorial Guinea into sub-Saharan Africa’s third-largest oil exporter.

When Forsyth was writing, there was little to lure soldiers of
fortune to this tropical dictatorship, which consists of a few,
lush, volcanic islands and a jungle-covered strip of the African
mainland. Its population of 500,000 subsisted mainly on cocoa exports,
so the novelist, who rechristened the country Zangoro, endowed it
with valuable deposits of platinum. But the oil is real enough, and
it appears to have attracted a band of adventurers who imagined that
the 1970s had never gone away.

Languishing since March in the island’s Black Beach prison are eight
former members of South Africa’s apartheid-era special forces, six
Armenian aircrew and five local men. They are accused of being the
advance guard for a coup planned by Simon Mann, a former SAS officer
turned mercenary soldier, allegedly supported by his friend Sir Mark
Thatcher, Lord Archer and his friend Ely Calil, a Lebanese-born oil
trader based in London, who is said to have commissioned the whole
operation.

He is said to have wanted to put Severo Moto, an exiled Equatorial
Guinea opposition politician, in power in exchange for favourable
oil deals.

Apart from Mr Mann, who is in Zimbabwe awaiting sentence for illegally
attempting to buy arms, all have denied having anything to do with the
affair. But in Equatorial Guinea, unaccustomed to world attention, the
alleged involvement of internationally known figures in a conspiracy
against it is more exciting than anything else that has happened
since the Spanish loosened their colonial grip in the 1960s.

Not only is there an English lord whose book sales outstrip even those
of Frederick Forsyth, but the Iron Lady herself is now reported to
have put up bail for her son, who has been under house arrest in Cape
Town on suspicion of having helped to finance the plot.

Even Equatorial Guinea’s President, Teodoro Obiang Nguema, appears to
have been caught up by the mood. When the alleged mercenaries were put
on trial last week, the death sentence was demanded by the prosecution
for their leader, Nick du Toit, who has confessed to his role. The
case was moved to a recently built conference centre and the world’s
press, normally excluded from the country, given access. On Tuesday,
the trial was suspended until the alleged role of Sir Mark and a number
of other accused coup supporters abroad can be explored. The judge said
yesterday it would resume in 30 days but Mr Obiang summoned the foreign
press for what turned out to be little more than an opportunity for
him to be photographed giving them an audience. The men on trial, he
said, were “individuals without morals who attempted a crime against
our country which would have resulted in blood being spilt”.

The journalists would have welcomed the opportunity to ask the
President about his own reputation for spilling blood. Since he deposed
and killed his despotic uncle, Macias Nguema 25 years ago – opinion
varies on whether he pulled the trigger himself – his opponents charge
him with having had several enemies disposed of. There are even claims
that he ate the testicles of some, to imbibe their masculinity. But,
while conceding that President Obiang permits no dissent, winning his
last election by the customary 97 per cent, nearly everyone agrees
his uncle was infinitely worse.

As we had dinner at an outdoor restaurant in Malabo, with ample bar
girls half-heartedly trying to chat up a couple of grizzled European
bush pilots, a government adviser said: “Look, we have had at least
five other coup attempts. One of them even involved Moto but nobody
was killed in any of them. The President just kept them in jail
for a while then let the plotters go, telling them to change their
ways. Moto went to Spain when he was released.

“This one was different. Simon Mann said they had taken account of the
possibility that Mr Obiang might be killed in the operation. That’s
why the death sentence was demanded for Nick du Toit, to show the
seriousness of the whole business, but the President would never let
it be carried out.”

That may be little consolation to the South African, who faces the
prospect of months more in Black Beach before he learns his fate,
but the oil, discovered in the mid-1990s, has raised the stakes
heavily. President Obiang and his clan have always run Equatorial
Guinea as a private enterprise, but the advent of American oil majors
such as Conoco and Amerada Hess has turned a trickle of agricultural
earnings into a torrent of oil dollars.

American congressional committees are said to be upset at human rights
abuses in Equatorial Guinea, and tales of contracts which provide for
oil revenues to be paid directly into personal bank accounts. Oil
wealth has given the country the sixth highest income per head in
the world, but the run-down state of the capital testifies that very
little of it trickles down.

The country has been refused aid by major donors because of
misappropriation of funds, and US government reports state openly
that the President and his circle control nearly all official revenues.

But in a world where Washington faces threats to its strategic
oil supplies across the Middle East, it is not likely to be too
fastidious about events in a country few of its citizens could find on
a map. Indeed, the US is mulling plans to build its biggest military
base in Africa right here. The arrival of American warships, aircraft
and service personnel would heighten the already surreal contrasts
that exist in Equatorial Guinea.

Hefty oilmen with Texan accents live in isolated compounds with
their equally hefty spouses and offspring, while African villagers a
few miles away live the way they always have, practising subsistence
agriculture and animist beliefs. There, it is said, one can hear dark
mutterings about certain omens concerning the President.

When his uncle was killed, Mr Obiang apparently took custody of the
clan’s most precious ritual object, a skull, which should have passed
to his eldest brother. And when his wife had twins – considered an
evil event in many African societies – he failed to have the younger
one killed. No good will come of it, traditionalists say. Hearing
such tales, and bearing in mind that many of the ruling “elite”
are illiterate, must have convinced anyone plotting a coup that they
could not fail. “But just because someone is illiterate does not mean
that he is stupid,” the government adviser said. “There was a lot of
white arrogance towards black people in this.”

Indeed, the accused conspirators are the ones who look stupid: not
only was their security appalling, with a paper trail a mile wide,
but they seemed oblivious to Equatorial Guinea’s strategic importance
having changed since the 1970s, when it had Cold War ties to the
Soviet Union and China. African governments are also working far more
closely with each other these days.

As Mr Mann arrived at Harare airport to meet a planeload of former
soldiers arriving from South Africa, the government of Zimbabwe,
tipped off by South African intelligence, was ready. Equatorial
Guinea was warned after the arrests, and rounded up Mr du Toit and his
co-accused. Britain and the US were also aware of what was happening;
a source in Malabo said American oil workers had been told to stay
in their compounds the night the mercenaries were supposed to go
into action.

Equatorial Guinea has pointed no fingers at London or Washington but
government sources have accused the right-wing former government in
Spain, ousted in the election later in March, of complicity in the
plot. Rumours persist that Spanish warships, with commandoes, were
in the vicinity of Equatorial Guinea at the time, only to sail away
when the coup fell apart.

As for Mr Moto, the putative beneficiary, reports from South Africa
say he was lucky not to have ended up in Black Beach with Mr du Toit
and the rest. Sources said a light aircraft with two South African
pilots had taken him as far as the Canary Islands on his way back to
Equatorial Guinea. From there, the plane was supposed to refuel in
Mali and continue to Malabo, landing just after Mr Mann and his men
had arrived.

What saved Mr Moto from testing the quality of President Obiang’s
mercy a second time, it appears, was a motor race being held on the
runway at Las Palmas. It delayed his departure from the Canaries,
and when the plane landed in Mali the pilots were warned by a text
message that Mr Mann’s aircraft and everyone aboard had been seized
in Zimbabwe. Equatorial Guinea has launched a High Court action
in London, accusing Greg Wales, a British businessman, of being
involved in the plot. South African newspapers say they have found
registration records which show he stayed at a hotel in Las Palmas
with David Tremain, a South African businessmen, at the same time as
Mr Moto and the two pilots. Mr Wales and Mr Tremain deny involvement.

For President Obiang, who is used to being treated somewhat
circumspectly by other African leaders, let alone the rest of the
world, the unfolding saga is a windfall as welcome as the oil under
his country’s seabed. The value of the unexpected gift increases with
every revelation and allegation, particularly if it concerns someone
as famous as Sir Mark Thatcher.

And since the former Prime Minister’s son is not due to appear in
court until November, there is little risk of interest fading. The
only people for whom this is not good news is Mr du Toit and his
colleagues in Black Beach.

ASBAREZ ONLINE [09-01-2004]

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TOP STORIES
09/01/2004
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1) Leading Kurds Warn Fighting Could Harm Turkey’s EU Prospects
2) Mountainous Karabagh Celebrates 13th Year of Independence
3) ICG To Qualify Javakhk Conflict In Upcoming Report
4) Kocharian, Aliyev Likely Meet Following Meeting of FMs

1) Leading Kurds Warn Fighting Could Harm Turkey’s EU Prospects

ANKARA (AFP)–Leading Kurdish activist Leyla Zana and three fellow politicians
warned Wednesday that continued clashes between Kurdish rebels and the army
could derail Turkey’s bid to join the European Union.
“Society is fed up with violence…It is time to say ‘enough is enough’ to
suffering, tears, and mourning,” the four former parliament members said in a
statement.
Zana and her colleagues–Hatip Dicle, Selim Sadak, and Orhan Dogan–have
appealed to Kurdish militants to lay down their arms since they were released
in June after a decade in jail, pending a review of their 1995 sentences for
aiding the armed rebellion against Ankara.
The outlawed Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK), now known as KONGRA-GEL, called
off a five-year unilateral ceasefire on June 1, raising tensions in the mainly
Kurdish southeast which had been mostly calm during the truce period.
Since then, the group has been blamed for a series of deadly attacks in the
region as well as the bombing of two hotels in Istanbul last month, which left
two dead and 11 injured.
EU leaders will assess Turkey’s progress towards greater democracy in
December
before deciding whether to set a date to open membership talks.
“Though it is a very low possibility, if a date for accession negotiations is
not given because of the clashes, the moral responsibility of this will be
enormous,” the four activists said. “That is why it is very important that
arms
are silenced.”
They argued that it would be easier to resolve the Kurdish question if Turkey
came closer to the EU.
“The attitudes and contributions of the EU member states will be as important
as the attitudes of Kurds and Turks in the acceleration of the process,” they
said.
Turkey has undertaken several major reforms to broaden the cultural freedoms
of its Kurdish minority as part of its campaign for EU membership.
Some 37,000 people have been killed in fighting between the PKK and the army
since 1984 when the rebels took up arms for self-rule in the southeast.

2) Mountainous Karabagh Celebrates 13th Year of Independence

STEPANAKERT (ARMENPRESS)–In a message delivered on the occasion of the 13th
anniversary of the independence of Mountainous Karabagh Republic (MKR),
President Arkady Ghukasian focused on steps being taken to advance the
economic, social, and cultural development of the country.
While speaking about the progress made by the government, Ghukasian stated,
“The recent municipal elections served to once more display the MKR
population’s and government’s commitment to promoting and strengthening
democracy in an effort to create a truly civil society.”
Recognizing the important role assumed by the Armenian Diaspora in Karabagh’s
reconstruction
Ghukasian said he is confident that the Diaspora will play even a more
significant role in efforts to secure international recognition for MKR.
Ghukasian referred to the military exercises held this last August as proof
that the country’s armed forces are willing and capable of defending
themselves
against foreign aggressors. He, nonetheless, moved on to confirm the
government’s intention to seek a peaceful solution to the Mountainous Karabagh
conflict.
Ghukasian concluded his message by stating, “No one can take away the freedom
and independence, which have been gained through extreme sacrifice.”
Several Armenian officials and dignitaries, including President Robert
Kocharian and Prime Minister Andranik Margarian forwarded congratulatory
messages to MKR, extending their support for the republic.
“The Mountainous Karabagh Republic is still devoted to the principle of a
peaceful settlement it has adopted, but is resolute to resist any encroachment
jeopardizing its self-governance. The heroic people of Karabagh must be
confident that the Republic of Armenia and all the Armenian people are a
reliable defender of their innermost dreams,” stated Margarian’s message.

3) ICG To Qualify Javakhk Conflict In Upcoming Report

AKHALKALAK (Noyan Tapan)–International Crisis Group (ICG) senior analyst
Filip
Noubel, was in Akhalkalak August 30-31, to clarify whether recent tensions in
Javakhk are inter-ethnic related or are conflicts between the center and
region, as proposed by Georgia.
An upcoming ICG report on Javakhk will likely peg the conflict as an
inter-ethnic one, reported the local A-Info news agency.
The ICG is an independent, non-profit, multinational organization, with over
100 staff members on five continents, working through field-based analysis and
high-level advocacy to prevent and resolve deadly conflict.
Its teams of political analysts are located within or close by countries at
risk of outbreak, escalation, or recurrence of violent conflict. Based on
information and assessments from the field, ICG produces regular analytical
reports containing practical recommendations targeted at key international
decision-takers. ICG also publishes CrisisWatch, a 12-page monthly bulletin,
providing a succinct regular update on the state of play in all the most
significant situations of conflict or potential conflict around the world.

4) Kocharian, Aliyev Likely Meet Following Meeting of FMs

PRAGUE (CTK/RFE-RL)–Various approaches to a peaceful resolution to the
Armenian-Azeri conflict over Mountainous Karabagh were discussed by the
foreign
ministers of Armenia and Azerbaijan, Vartan Oskanian and Elmar Mammadyarov, in
Prague on Monday.
The French, Russian, and US co-chairs of the Organization for Security and
Cooperation in Europe (OSCE) Minsk Group also attended the day-long
meeting. It
was the first face-to-face encounter between Oskanian and Mammadyarov since
the
envoys’ visit to the conflict zone last month.
“We are continuing what we began at our first meeting,” Oskanian said
during a
break in the talks. “Our main objective is to create a common basis on
which we
could build during further negotiations. We are working toward that objective
and I can’t say we have achieved it,” he added.
Asked whether the two sides have made any progress in the last few months, he
said: “It’s a bit early to speak of common approaches. But the dialogue is
useful.”
Oskanian revealed that the presidents of Armenia and Azerbaijan will likely
meet next in Astana, Kazakhstan, during a meeting of CIS heads of state.
Only pieces of information about the results of the Prague meeting were
proved
to the press, though according to available reports, the talks did not have a
precise agenda.
While touring Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Mountainous Karabagh in late July, the
OSCE mediators openly criticized the conflicting parties for their perceived
intransigence, bluntly stating that the burden is on the sides, not the Minsk
Group, to push the protracted peace process forward.
The Prague meeting was the fourth between Oskanian and Mammadyarov; the
previous talks were held in June, also in Prague.

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John Kerry: As President I’ll fight against denial of Armenian Genoc

JOHN KERRY: “AS A PRESIDENT I WILL FIGHT AGAINST DENIAL OF ARMENIAN GENOCIDE”

ArmenPress
Sept 1 2004

WASHINGTON, SEPTEMBER 1, ARMENPRESS: One of the candidates of US
presidency, Democrat John Kerry, has been the supporter of Armenian
issues in the Senate. He has variously supported Armenian resolutions
and has pledged to recognize Armenian Genocide upon being elected.

Last week John Kerry has even more clarified his disposition
unveiling the most expressive statement on Genocide. “John Kerry
Edwards administration will launch a fight against denial of Armenian
Genocide,” the statement says.

The Democrat candidate, who the recent polls say, has almost equal
rating as George Bush does, has even excelled in a number of important
issues. In his statement he said that it has been a great honor for
him to work with Armenian community during the recent two decade of
years around such important issues as Armenia Genocide or improvement
in Armenian-American relations.

John Kerry urged the Armenians to go to their constituencies on
November 2 and vote for him and John Edwards.

The Democrat candidate clearly formulates how his administration is
going to recognize Armenian genocide, if elected.

“As a president, I will fight against denial of Armenian genocide.
My administration will recognize April 24, 2005 as the 90th anniversary
of the atrocities and I will do everything that the lessons learned
from the crime against humanity be used in prevention of other
genocides. There can not be any compromise in the moral issue of
putting an end to massacres,” John Kerry’s statement says.

Armenian PM addressed message of congratulations on day of NKRIndepe

ARMENIAN PM ADDRESSED A MESSAGE OF CONGRATULATION ON THE DAY OF NKR INDEPENDENCE

ArmenPress
Sept 1 2004

YEREVAN, SEPTEMBER 1, ARMENPRESS: Armenian prime minister Andranik
Margarian has addressed a message to Nagorno Karabakh Republic (NKR)
president Arkadi Ghukassian and people of Artsakh congratulating
them on 13th anniversary of proclamation of independence in NKR. The
message runs as follows,

“Dear compatriots, I congratulate you on the Day of Independence
in Nagorno Karabakh Republic. Thirteen years ago Artsakh Armenians
expressed their common will in creating an independent statehood
on the historic motherland, defending the right for decent life and
commitment to pan-national values. That will is unbreakable. It is
proved by the victory of Armenian freedom loving spirit in the war
imposed on Armenians and in present steps to preserve that victory
and build a democratic state.

Nagorno Karabakh continues to keep to its professed principle of
peaceful resolution of the conflict and is full of determination to
face any threat to its rule. The historic people of Artsakh should be
sure that they have a trustworthy defender of their perished dreams
in the face of Republic of Armenia and every Armenian.

Long live the memory of the heroes who died for Artsakh. The highest
paid homage to them will be preservation of the victory.

I wish to freedom loving people of Artsakh long lasting peace and
creative work.”

Protest actions threatened to be staged unless KLO members set free

PROTEST ACTIONS THREATENED TO BE STAGED UNLESS KLO MEMBERS SET FREE

ArmenPress
Sept 1 2004

BAKU, SEPTEMBER 1, ARMENPRESS: A court ruling has recently sentenced
Karabakh Liberation Organization (KLO) 6 members to 3-5 years
of imprisonment accusing them in violation of public order and
hooliganism. The mentioned people have over expressed themselves
in their discontent about involvement of Armenian officers in June
21 NATO military exercises in Baku. According to pro-government and
opposition forces of Azerbaijan, the ruling has been dictated by USA.
According to RFE/RL sources, a number of statements have been made
which threaten to stage actions of mass protest unless KLO members
are set free.

Azeri Great Revival party leader has addressed a message to Armenian
president which says in particular, “Mr. Kocharian, taking into
consideration the result of the trial, you can be considered the
winner of 10 year long war.”

Over 1000 foreign students at medical university in Yerevan

OVER 1000 FOREIGN STUDENTS STUDY AT MEDICAL UNIVERSITY IN YEREVAN

ArmenPress
Sept 1 2004

YEREVAN, SEPTEMBER 1, ARMENPRESS. This year the number of foreign
students at the Medical University after Mkhitar Herazi has surpassed
1000, the Assistant to Yerevan State Medical University rector Armen
Ashotian told Armenpress saying that the students mostly come from
India and Middle East.

According to him, the new university policy has reconsidered that the
mentioned countries have a great demand for doctors, unlike Armenia,
and year by year they increase the number of applicants taken the
fact that apart from quality education the tuition fee is quite
low in Armenia compared with international standards. Taking into
consideration this fact, the university prescribed more places for
foreign students.

Ashotian didn’t rule out that within few years more foreigners will
study at Medical University than Armenian citizens.

Travels with someone’s aunt

Travels with someone’s aunt; Art: Preview

Time Out
September 01, 2004

‘Off the Beaten Track’: women bitten by the travel bug.

When British traveller Mark Sykes met Gertrude Bell in Jerusalem in
1906 he described the archaeologist as a ‘conceited, gushing,
flat-chested, man-woman, globe-trotting, rumpwagging, blethering
ass’. Bell had been foolish enough to share with him her passion for
the Middle East where she flouted convention byriding on a masculine
saddle and, in her divided skirt, frequently passed as a man. When at
home, though, she was careful not to challenge masculine pride by
behaving as a dutiful daughter, refusing to walk unchaperoned along
Piccadilly and helping to found the AntiSuffrage League.

Mary Kingsley even wore the restrictive dress of a Victorian spinster
on her travels in West Africa, which began in 1892 after the death of
her parents. ‘Youhave no right’, she wrote in her book ‘Travels in
West Africa’, ‘to go about Africa in things you would be ashamed to
be seen in at home.’ And when lecturingon her findings back home, she
would ask her audience whether or not she reminded them of a maiden
aunt. In Arthur King’s photograph, which was taken in 1900 as a
publicity shot, she looks every inch the tight-lipped matron who
wouldn’t dream of stepping an inch out of line.

Despite celebrating the many women who escaped the tedium of the
limited lives offered their sex in nineteenth- and early
twentieth-century British society by hoofing it to foreign parts, the
National Portrait Gallery’s ‘Off the Beaten Track’ conveys the
stifling atmosphere that they left behind rather than the freedom
which they attained abroad. So keen were these middle- and
upper-class women not to appear disreputable to their families,
friends and audiences that, when sitting for paintings or
photographs, they presented themselves as the embodiment of
respectability. You would be hard pressed to spot the spirit of
adventure in any of the images on display.

Isabella Bird travelled the world to the US, Australia, Hawaii,
Japan, India, Persia, Korea, China and Morocco gathering material for
innumerable books. Photographed by Sir Benjamin Stone outside the
Houses of Parliament in 1899, wearing a white lace shawl over a long
black dress, her hair hidden beneath a high bonnet and her face by a
tight veil, this diminutive figure (under five feet tall) looks as
though she would scarcely contemplate crossing the road, letalone
sailing the world’s oceans or regaling the House on ‘the Armenian
question’ the status of Armenian Christians in the Turkish Empire, of
which she had first-hand knowledge.

Like several of these travellers, Bird first went abroad for health
reasons.

Free from the suffocating atmosphere of British society, her spinal
problems andnumerous other complaints miraculously disappeared, only
to return when she did.’I am well’, she wrote to a friend, ‘as long
as I live on horseback, go to bed at eight, sleep out of doors or in
a log cabin, and lead in all respects a completely unconventional
life.’ The captions and accompanying book downplay theachievements of
these remarkable women. There is no mention, for instance, that Dame
Freya Stark was the first person to make detailed maps of many areas
of theMiddle East. Little distinction is made between the courageous
women who, havingcreated opportunities for themselves, set off alone
in search of adventure, health or knowledge and those who simply
followed diplomat husbands or brothers overseas. The result is to put
the achievements of women such as the renowned anthropologist Mary
Douglas, the botanists Maria Graham and Marianne North or
archaeologists Gertrude Bell and Dame Kathleen Kenyon on a par with
the watercolours of dilettantes such as Jane Digby, who married an
Arab sheik, and Lady Canning, whose husband was Governor General of
India. A fascinating if somewhat frustrating journey, none the less.

Sarah Kent For details see National Portrait Gallery.