La Croix International
Tuesday
Iranian Christians close ranks at St. Thaddeus pilgrimage
Every year thousands assemble to commemorate the martyrdom of the apostle who is reputed to have evangelized western Azerbaidjan
As soon as she passes the control barrier, Narineh, 31, a secretary from Teheran, quickly takes off her long jacket and the Islamic veil that covers her blond-tinted hair.
She and her husband have driven for 24 hours to reach the twin black and white domes of the Armenian Church of St. Thaddeus, which stands on an isolated plain near Maku, not far from the border with Turkey and Armenia.
Every year thousands of Iranian Christians assemble at Qara Kelisa (the black church) to commemorate the martyrdom of the apostle Thaddeus, who is reputed to have evangelized this region of western Azerbaidjan.
The pilgrimage, which may soon be listed as part of UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage, offers an opportunity to keep their faith alive as many people continue to emigrate.
Hundreds of multicolored tents and windbreakers line the length of the ancient monastery and the neighboring hill. Perfume from the incense rising from the church mixes with the smoke of many barbecues.
Families have set up their camp stoves and coolers under the leaden sky. Most will spend the afternoon at table. Here and there, Assyrian pop music blares from a radio.
Why have they all come so far for what looks more like a camping trip than a pilgrimage?
Unique pilgrimage in the Islamic Republic of Iran
“Some have come mostly for enjoyment and to meet friends,” Narineh, an Armenian Christian said. “Personally, I was not much of a believer at first.”
“But seven years ago, I received an answer to my prayers at the tomb of St. Thaddeus and that has made my faith much more alive,” she said.
“Since then, my husband and I come nearly every year,” she said, as she replaces her veil in preparation for evening prayer in the church led by the bishop.
Since the 1950s, several thousand Iranian Christians have gathered here in mid-July each year for the three day pilgrimage, which is the only one of its kind in the Islamic Republic of Iran.
Th event, which is organized by the Armenian Apostolic Church, the largest Christian church in Iran with 60,000 members, commemorates the martyrdom of the Apostle Jude or Thaddeus, who is believed to have evangelized these regions and is regarded as one of the church’s founders.
Thaddeus’ tomb is also located here, according to an ancient inscription at the foot of the eastern facade of the church.
Ten years ago, UNESCO added Qara Kelisa and two other churches in the region to its World Heritage list. The pilgrimage may also soon join them on the UNESCO list of intangible, cultural heritage.
“In two months, we will lodge the proposal with UNESCO,” said Sherly Avedian, who coordinates the pilgrimage and is a leader of the Iranian association for historic churches, which is also sponsored by the government heritage body.
“The government provides financial and material support to keep the place going and to attract tourists,” she said.
A photo of the Ayatollah Khomeiny is on display above the church door alongside another of the Armenian Patriarch in recognition of the fact that the festival originally took place under the auspices of the former.
Meanwhile, government agents mix with the crowd and make sure that no Muslims join the celebrations for fear of conversions.
Important to feel united as Iranian Christians
Zaya and Rosy, who are Assyrians from Ourmia, which is three hours away by car, have come to spend the day with their friends and cousins.
“It’s important to feel the unity between us as Iranian Christians,” said Zaya, 42, who works in a fruit juice factory. “We don’t have enough electricity or supplies but under a tent we are all equal.”
He and his wife have no children. Many couples who come here would like to have one. Indeed, that very morning the bishop celebrated the baptisms of two children whose births are attributed to the intercession of St. Thaddeus.
After divine liturgy on the final day, the faithful will also sacrifice sheep, an antique practice that has continued in some areas.
Looked on by some as a folk festival and as a pilgrimage by others, the gathering has taken on greater significance as an increasing number of people have started to migrate. Now there are only 2,000 participants whereas there were up to 6,000 in the past.
Vartan, 30, an Armenian Christian from Tabriz with a crucifix tattooed on his forearm, has never missed a pilgrimage since he was nine but he hopes this will be his last.
He is now thinking of joining his cousins in the United States, where he hopes to find “more opportunities for the future as a DJ and more choice in getting married.”
“Unfortunately, Trump has closed the gates,” he laments, hoping to rediscover his “energy” during the pilgrimage.
“We are not newcomers but natives, particularly in these regions where Christians have lived for 2,000 years,” said Armenian Archbishop Grigor Chifchian of Tabriz. “We certainly have a place of our own in Iran.”