Travel: A local’s guide to Armenia

Having begun her career as a photojournalist at a local Armenian news agency, Nazik Armenakyan was struck by the lack of opportunities for photographers in her home country. In 2012, she co-founded 4Plus, a pioneering non-profit aiming to develop documentary photography as a profession and create dialogue surrounding key issues impacting Armenia. Its work sheds light on topics largely shrouded in silence, including life on the margins of society and the experiences of women.

This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

Why should people travel to Armenia?

It may be a small country, but it has many layers. On this small, narrow piece of land, a lot of energy has been accumulated throughout the ages to form the aura of the Armenia we know today. People, culture, language, mountains, fields, and food – these are the main components of this aura, and what should draw people here.

How would you describe your relationship with the country?

Although I’m a photographer, forming a relationship with a place and its people doesn’t necessarily come from taking photos. Here, all you need to do is talk to people. You just have to ask, “How are you?” and they will open their hearts, tell you stories from their life, show you the loveliest view of their village, and put together the most delicious table of local food.

What are the biggest cultural hits in the capital Yerevan?

I’d recommend the Sergei Parajanov Museum, which is dedicated to the Armenian director and artist famed for the films Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors (1965) and The Color of Pomegranates (1969). Along with the renowned oeuvre showcased here, this is a great place for creative musings – a special atmosphere seems to hover over the museum, and one always discovers new things even when revisiting it.

Nazik Armenakyan

You can also head to the former home of painter and ethnographer Lusik Aguletsi, who was the last Armenian to regularly walk the streets of Yerevan in her traditional Armenian dress. I knew her in person and had the chance to photograph her works; now I visit her house, which has been transformed into a museum. With all its decorations and costumes, it feels more like a national gallery. Here you’ll also find the cosy Art Café, which serves tasty regional food.

Any other places you’d take a first-time visitor to see?

I’d recommend travelling through my favourite regions: Tavush, Syunik, and Lori. There is so much to discover. For instance, you could go to the village of Berkaber in Tavush, which sits on the border reservoir between Armenia and Azerbaijan. The nature and people here are simply wonderful. It’s amazing how they efficiently use the natural resources around them. Syunik, the southernmost province, has fantastic scenery. The massive mountains in Meghri look as if they are dancing kochari (a traditional Armenian dance). Many tropical fruits grow in the town – while walking the narrow stone streets, one can pick figs, kiwis, bananas, Mandarins, and pomegranates from the trees. Lori is an earthly paradise, rich in historical and cultural sites, including the famous Haghpat Monastery.

When you are away, what do you miss most about Armenia?

It’s been a year and half since I’ve travelled, so I forget! But I suppose it would be my home, my family and friends, the Armenian language, and food – particularly bread and cheese. You should definitely try lavash, a thin flatbread, and I especially love brined Lori cheese.

What excites you about the country right now?

I love driving and discovering small, unknown places. For example, the striking modernist architecture of the Sevan Writers’ Resort on the shore of Lake Sevan.

What makes 4Plus such an important project?

We established the organisation because it’s essential to document life in our country. It is like a bridge between people – through photographs, you are able to get a glimpse into others’ lives. It is crucial for viewers to see other people’s pain and issues and share these, even if only in their minds. That’s a powerful change that photography can bring. We have committed ourselves to educating people through our photographs. We raise important topics, some of which are otherwise rarely spoken about in Armenia, and communicate them to the audience with a special emphasis on ethics – we set and adhere to a high benchmark when it comes to ethical photography.

Which spots would you recommend to photography enthusiasts?

At 4Plus, we have a number of photo stories from places that I think are very visually interesting to visit. The nature surrounding Berkaber is extraordinary, while the decaying industrial splendour of the town of Alaverdi is a different kind of beautiful. In Yerevan, Kond is among the most fascinating corners. It’s one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods and still has a lot of pre-Soviet architecture.

Follow Nazik Armenakyan on Instagram @nazikarmenakyan